Ulluchiran

### Climbing Route Description Category 6 difficulty ascent route with detailed technical specifications and team composition.

Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 | Total travel time — 23 hours. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key points, and essential skills required for mountaineers.

Bakin Kudinov

Route 5B category of complexity to the summit of Jangitau Main via the South face, combined, traversing the Southern ridge with a detour around the bastion on the left.

Jangitau Main via South Face (combined route, G. Kartvelishvili, 5B cat. diff., fig. 20, 22). From the bivouac on the top of the Central Rocky Island of the Southwest Wall "Kunal" of Jangitau massif (route 125), turn left and along the left side of the broken oblique glacier of the South Face of Jangitau, approach the South Ridge of Jangitau Main. Ascent: Steep snow-covered rocks or a narrow ice-snow gully Ascend 70–80 m Reach the South Ridge Here, turn right and along steep snow-covered slopes of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the bastion wall. Bypass the bastion from the left and exit to the South Ridge behind it. Further, ascend steep rocks above medium difficulty on the South Ridge with challenging walls. After passing the scree, ascend to the summit of Jangitau Main via an ice-snow slope. 8 hours from the bivouac Fig. 22. From Shkhara Western to Lyalver and Tetnuldi

Description of the 5B category route to the summit of Джангитау Западная via the South ridge, combined terrain, with bivouacs and technical difficulties.

Dzhangitau Zapadnaya via South Ridge (combined route, O. Khazaradze, 5B cat. dif., fig. 20, 22). From the “Morena Khalde” base camp, cross the Khalde Glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Dzhangitau Zapadnaya peak. To the left of the hanging glacier’s debris flows, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, via a rangklyuft, ascend 40–60 m up challenging and above-average-difficulty walls, slabs, and corners to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab — ledge. After crossing the waterfall stream, approach a corner — couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty with short challenging walls and ice-snow sections on the left side of the corner — couloir (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to the ledge of the Left Ridge of the triangle. Set up a bivouac on the ledge. 10–14 hrs from the base camp. From the ledge, ascend 150–200 m up a steep ice-snow couloir of above-average difficulty or the rocks on its right or left side (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to a ledge. Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep ice-snow ridge — slope, rocks of average difficulty (“live” rocks), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a ledge. Set up a bivouac. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the ledge, ascend 400–500 m up the sharp snowy-rocky South Ridge of average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on, bypassing a tower on the right, to a saddle. Set up a bivouac on the snowy slope behind the saddle. 8–10 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend 50–60 m up rocks of average difficulty, then traverse 200–250 m up the destroyed and snowy-rocky South Ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of Dzhangitau Zapadnaya. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac.

Ascent route to the top of East Dzhangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort, a combined route with a length of over 1600 m and challenging rock and snow-ice sections.

JANGI (E), Eastern Counterfort - 5B cat. The route to East Jangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort is combined: its lower part is a rocky counterfort, the upper part is a snow-ice slope. The total length of the route is over 1600 m, the length of the rocky counterfort is 1000-1100 m. The average steepness of the rocky counterfort is 65-70°, with overhanging sections encountered on the route. The maximum steepness of the ice slope in the upper part of the route is 45-50°. Description of the route by sections. The initial bivouac is on a snow plateau under the base of the Eastern counterfort. The exit to the base of the counterfort is 120 m along a snowy slope at 40°. 40 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the base of the chimney (sect. a). The right wall of the chimney is a huge detached rock, the upper part is covered by an overhanging rock. The wall above the chimney is a continuation of its left side. The exit to the overhanging rock is 40 m either directly up the chimney (difficult climbing) or bypassing it on the right. Then there is a 15 m wall with two vertical slots. Ascent via the right slot, then in the upper part of the wall to the left slot and exit to the top of the wall. 40 m up the internal angle with an exit to the right onto inclined slabs (sect. b). Up the slabs to the base of a wide slot 5 m and up the slot to under a small cornice. Through the cornice, exit onto an inclined ledge and along it 40 m to the left to the junction of two walls (the ridge of the junction sect. b is visible in the photo).

Report on the ascent of the RCSRT-II team to the summit of Shota Rustaveli via the North Face, category 5B route in 1985.

Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985 Snow and Ice Ascent Category Report On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II. Team's Tactical Actions A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Main Dzhanga via the NE buttress and ridge, with recommendations for navigating challenging sections and organizing overnight stays.

Katyn-Tau, NE ridge – 4B cat. diff. The initial bivouac is on the Bezengi glacier under the base of the NE counterfort. From the bivouac, cross the bergschrund via an avalanche deposit to the left of the counterfort and move up the snowy slope 400 m to the right of the avalanche chute, then traverse to the right under the rocks of the counterfort and ascend 80 m up a rocky couloir onto the counterfort. Further: Keep to the left slopes Move up through simple rocks alternating with snowy sections Proceed along the snowy slope to the "cushion" 6–7 hours from the bivouac. An overnight stay can be organized on the "cushion". The initial bivouac is on the ridge at the beginning of the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. From the bivouac:

**Category 4B route to the summit of Jangii via the north-eastern ridge, description of the approach, ascent, and descent, recommended climbing plan.**

Route to the summit of Джанги via NE ridge, cat. 4B (D. Kokkin, 1888) The initial bivouac is at the Джанги-кош hut or closer to the route — on the snowy plateau (Шхара glacier) of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара under the base of the rocky spur of the NE ridge of Джанги-тау. Scheme of the 4B route via NE ridge. Photo from the Джанги-кош hut (A. Yurkin). Approach to the route 1st option: Move along the Безенгийский glacier and further along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of its Eastern branch to the overnight stays located opposite the Southern cirque of п. Семеновского (5–5.5 hours from the alpine camp). Here, descend to the glacier and cross it, exiting under the icefall that flows to the left of the rocky base of the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау. Ascend to the plateau of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара via the icefall at a safe distance (with ice falls at the top) from the walls of the NE ridge, taking 3–4 hours from the moraine. 2nd option. Move along the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Безенгийский glacier to the "Austrian overnight stays" (5–6 hours), then: Descend to the glacier;

Ascent to the summit of Drakta via the Southwest Counterfort, category of complexity 3B, summit elevation 6,670 m.

Djangi (N) 5A to N. col. 665 15. Solorosinov + U. 1500, 65°, 63 cm. from the plateau ker 2.5. East Djangi-TAU

The ascent to the summit of Кату-Норд (Katu North) via the southwest wall is technically challenging and requires good physical fitness.

Katyn 58 to the S. wall I. Kudinov 12.08–14.08 11.08 9.08 ▲10.08