Мырды

Description of the 2A combined route traversing the Myrdy Western - Eastern peaks, including key landmarks and passage specifics.

Myrdy Western — Eastern, combined, 2A Route Description The ascent to the Lожный Мырды (False Myrdy) pass is described in the “Гвандра Восточная с перемычки от Центральной вершины” (Gvandra Eastern from the saddle of Tsentralnaya peak)” route (16). From the pass, descend to the southern side of the ridge onto the first ledges, and traverse left along them with a slight gain in altitude to a long ledge running along the southern side of the ridge beneath the cliffs of the Western summit R2. Approximately from the middle of the ledge: ascend left and upwards 30 m via an inner corner, followed by a series of ledges leading to the western ridge (protection!). A prominent overhanging rock R7 on the right serves as a landmark. Follow the straightforward 200-meter ridge to reach the Western summit. From the pass, it takes 4 hours. From the Western summit, staying close to the right side of the ridge, approach a narrow couloir R8. In the first half of summer: there are numerous cornices on the left side of the ridge, inner corners are filled with snow.

Description of category 1B route to the Myrdy Eastern peak via Myrdy pass, including details on glacier traverse, pass slope ascent, and summit's eastern ridge climb.

Myrdy East from Myrdy Pass, 1B Route Description: The ascent to Myrdy Plateau is described in the route "Gvandra East from Ak-Tyube Pass" (14). From the plateau, turn left, leaving Gvandra Malaya peak to the right, and head towards Myrdy Pass. In its middle section, the glacier may be heavily broken. In this case, one should ascend to the sub-pass slope via the glacier on the left, passing under the walls of Kirpich peak. The ascent to the pass slope presents no technical difficulties. Directly under the pass rocks, a 5 m wide bergschrund may be encountered. It is overcome by descending to the bottom of the crevasse and then ascending via crumbling ledges, slippery rocks, and small talus. Beyond the pass, to the south, lies a large snow "dome" plateau. From the "dome", move right, bypassing the lower part of the eastern ridge of Myrdy peak. Ascend to the ridge via a pronounced yellow-colored talus and a long ledge. Then, moving along the snowy part of the ridge, bypass a 40-meter rock face via ledges and snow (R16–R17) and ascend to the slabs in its middle section. Beyond the slabs, follow the ridge to reach the East summit. From Myrdy bivouac — 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3 hours.

The first ascent of the West face of Kirpich Peak (3800 m) in the Caucasus via a route rated at grade 6A, completed by a team consisting of Pugachev S.A., Zagirnyak M.V., Verbitskiy O.M., and Revunov N.V. in August 2007.

CIS Championship 2007 High-altitude technical class Classification Commission of the FAR Report on the first ascent of the route to peak Kirpich (3800 m) via the left part of the Western wall, category 6A (KTMGV item 2.3), made by the team of the Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Team leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor 2nd category Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Master of Sports, instructor 1st category. Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Chairman: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilievich Ukraine, 91005, Dalnevostochnaya str., 2D

Description of the passage of a category 5B climbing route up the western wall of Kirpich Peak in the Western Caucasus.

Passport I. Class of rock climbing ascents. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. Sixth ascent. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 90 m, R4 — 20 m.

Report on the ascent of Category 5B route on the western wall of "Kirpich" peak (3800 m) in the Caucasus, Uzunkol valley, in 1983.

I. Rock Class Rock Class Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge Peak "Kirpich", 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the western wall Category 5B difficulty Elevation gain — 710 m, length — 960 m, length of sections with R5–R6 difficulty — 330 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 85° Pitons hammered: rock: 39 (new), 4 (previously hammered) bolt: 15 (new), 8 (previously hammered) chocks: 69 (new), 8 (previously hammered)

Ascent to the summit of Kirpich via the West Face, category 5B, climbed by the LOS DSO "Trud" group in 1968.

Group Composition The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition: Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged. V. Kirpich

Description of the 6A category difficulty route through the "diamond" of the Western wall of the Kirpich peak, 3800 m, in the Western Caucasus.

Passport Class — technical Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge. Peak Kirpich, 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the West Wall Complexity category 6A. Height difference — 860 m (2940–3800), wall section — 460 m (2940–3400) Length — 1055 m, wall section — 505 m. Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. — 130 m 5th cat. diff. — 270 m

Description of the 6A category complexity route via the "diamond" on the West face of Kirpich peak in the Western Caucasus, with details on the passage and photographs.

Ascent Passport Western Caucasus, Uzunkol area, Myrdy gorge, section number according to the classification table 2.3 Kirpich peak, via the "diamond" on the Western wall (Yu. Manoylov's route) 6A category of complexity Route type: rock Route height difference: 800 m Route length: 1010 m Length of sections: 5th category of complexity — 155 m, 6th category of complexity — 125 m Average steepness: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 62°

Description of the 6A category difficulty route to Pik Kirpich via the "diamond" on the western wall in the Western Caucasus.

PASSPORT I. Category — rock. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Pik Kirpich — via the "diamond" on the western wall. 6A category difficulty (route by Yu. Manoylov, 1968) Route length: 1070 m Height difference on the route: 840 m Average steepness of the wall section: 77° Height difference of the wall section: 440 m Length of the wall section: 490 m

Description of the passage of the Manoylov's route, category 6A difficulty level, on the western wall of the peak Kirpich in Uzun-Kol.

Kirpich, Manoylov's Route, 6A Ascent Passport Technical class Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge Kirpich peak (3800 m), via the "diamond" of the West wall, Manoylov's route. 6A cat. difficulty. Height difference 700 m, length 1060 m, length of climbing sections V (4c–5a) (1) cat. difficulty – 160 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. difficulty – 95 m, length of climbing sections VII+ (6c) cat. difficulty – 32 m, A0 – 3 m. Average slope of the route – 50°, slope of the wall section – 80°. Pitons driven: rock: wired/stoppers: bolted: 0/15 30/0 0/25 * — previously driven Team's working hours 17 h, 2 days, ascent, descent on the day of reaching the summit.