Myrdy Western — Eastern, combined, 2A
Route Description
The ascent to the Lожный Мырды (False Myrdy) pass is described in the “Гвандра Восточная с перемычки от Центральной вершины” (Gvandra Eastern from the saddle of Tsentralnaya peak)” route (16).
From the pass, descend to the southern side of the ridge onto the first ledges, and traverse left along them with a slight gain in altitude to a long ledge running along the southern side of the ridge beneath the cliffs of the Western summit R2. Approximately from the middle of the ledge:
- ascend left and upwards 30 m via an inner corner,
- followed by a series of ledges leading to the western ridge (protection!).
A prominent overhanging rock R7 on the right serves as a landmark. Follow the straightforward 200-meter ridge to reach the Western summit. From the pass, it takes 4 hours.
From the Western summit, staying close to the right side of the ridge, approach a narrow couloir R8. In the first half of summer:
- there are numerous cornices on the left side of the ridge,
- inner corners are filled with snow.
Overcome the couloir in its upper part and reach the ridge just below a gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left or right depending on the condition of the slopes. Then approach a 12-meter ascent on the ridge — a wall R11. Ascend the wall to a simple ridge, along which continue for 350 m to reach the Eastern summit. Traverse the summit along a ledge R13, move left, and ascend to the Eastern summit via a short rocky ridge. From the Western summit, it takes 3 hours.
The descent from the summit follows the “Мырды Восточная с перевала Мырды” (Myrdy Eastern from Myrdy pass) route (23).
- Depart from the Myrdy bivouac no later than 5:00 AM;
- after bad weather, flow ice may be encountered on the section from R2 to the Western summit.
