Myrdy East from Myrdy Pass, 1B

Route Description:

The ascent to Myrdy Plateau is described in the route "Gvandra East from Ak-Tyube Pass" (14).

From the plateau, turn left, leaving Gvandra Malaya peak to the right, and head towards Myrdy Pass. In its middle section, the glacier may be heavily broken. In this case, one should ascend to the sub-pass slope via the glacier on the left, passing under the walls of Kirpich peak.

The ascent to the pass slope presents no technical difficulties. Directly under the pass rocks, a 5 m wide bergschrund may be encountered. It is overcome by descending to the bottom of the crevasse and then ascending via crumbling ledges, slippery rocks, and small talus.

Beyond the pass, to the south, lies a large snow "dome" plateau. From the "dome", move right, bypassing the lower part of the eastern ridge of Myrdy peak. Ascend to the ridge via a pronounced yellow-colored talus and a long ledge. Then, moving along the snowy part of the ridge, bypass a 40-meter rock face via ledges and snow (R16–R17) and ascend to the slabs in its middle section. Beyond the slabs, follow the ridge to reach the East summit. From Myrdy bivouac — 5–6 hours.

The descent via the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3 hours.