Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge.
3. Peak Kirpich, 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the West Wall
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference — 860 m (2940–3800), wall section — 460 m (2940–3400)

Length — 1055 m, wall section — 505 m. Length of sections:

• 6th cat. diff. — 130 m
• 5th cat. diff. — 270 m

Average steepness of the main part of the route (2940–3400) — 80°, key part of the wall (3100–3400) — 87°.

6. Pitons hammered: rock — 24+22*, 3+4* chock stones — 82 bolt hanger — 22+16*

7. Team's walking hours — 17.5 hours and days — 2

8. One overnight stay — semi-reclined, on the wall.

9. Captain — Volodin V.G., MS

Participants:

• Lavrinenko V.V., MS
• Timme E.A., MS
• Yablokov K.Yu., CMS
• Yanochkin V.I., IMS

10. Coach — Timme E.A., MS

11. Route entry on August 8, 2000. Summit on August 9, 2000. Return on August 9, 2000.

12. Conducting organization — SCA named after Demchenko A.S. (FAiS Moscow)

Overall photograph of the route (photo 1)

p. Kirpich 3800 m

1. team route "diamond" of the West Wall 6A (Manoylov 1968)
2. route "West wall along the gutters" 4A (Sedov 1969)
3. route "Northwest wall" 5A (Sogrin 1969)

Overall photograph of the route (photo 2)

p. Kirpich 3800 m

1. team route "diamond" of the West Wall 6A (Manoylov 1968)
2. route "Northwest wall" 5A (Sogrin 1969)
3. route "West slope" 3B (Peterson 1964)
4. route "North-northeast wall" 5B (Sharov 1978) Photo from "Verkhne-myrdynskie" overnight stays. H — (2750–2800) m, L — about 2.5 km.

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Route profile M 1:2000

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Route description by sections

Section R0. Approach to the beginning of the rock part of the route via a firn slope and talus cone. The start of the route is determined by the middle, largest, strip of black streaks.

Section R1. Up the right wall of the internal corner. Exit right onto a shelf.

Section R2. Right-up, bypassing the smooth vertical wall. Exit onto a wide inclined shelf under the black streaks on the wall. It is possible to ascend under the waterfall.

Section R3. Left-up along the inclined shelf, cross the couloir and continue up the wall to the continuation of the same shelf. The main landmark is a black sheer gutter.

Section R4. Along the inclined shelf left-up to the base of the overhanging wall, above which a grotto with black streaks is visible. Pass 20 meters to the left of the streaks. Do not go to the noticeable chip to the left along the shelf!

Section R5. Up the overhanging wall. The first 10 meters are climbing, then bolt hangers begin, work on ITO. Then exit right onto narrow ledges leading towards the grotto. Along them — exit into the grotto. Attention! In this section, it is necessary to thoughtfully plan the movement of the last person. Difficult diagonal traverse, in many places it throws away from the wall.

Section R6. Right-up exit from the grotto along vertical walls towards the overhanging internal corner, crossing the entire middle part of the wall diagonally from left to right. Exit onto a narrow shelf at the base of this corner. Insurance places — inconvenient, stations — mainly on bolt hangers.

Section R7. Left-up along the overhanging internal corner, movement mainly on ITO along the crack. Climbing is strenuous, difficult. The number of good holds is limited. Rocks with very hard accreted quartz crust. From this place and above, descent is problematic, as this internal corner has a generally negative slope and goes constantly to the left.

Section R15. Quite wide, fairly steep ridge "roof". At the beginning, there are short steep walls, then the ridge is more destroyed, climbing is of medium difficulty, insurance mainly due to relief. Gradually, the ridge "lies down". Movement of rope teams is simultaneous.

Section R16. Simple rock buttress leading to talus fields and further to the summit. Participants' movement is autonomous.

Descent from the summit via route 1B cat. diff. to the Dalar pass.

Technical photograph of the route (photo 4)

p. Kirpich 3800 m (August 9, 2000, 14:00)

Photo from the Myrdy glacier:

• H — about 2850 m
• L — about 1 km

News of the Russian Retriever Club

(March – September 1999)

Report on the IV Specialized Exhibition RRC "Retriever – 99" Information about the prize-winners of the exhibition "Retriever – 99" RRC Retrievers – Winners and prize-winners of RKF exhibitions Information about titled retrievers of RRC from regions Sensation: Russian Retrievers at the European Championship – 99 New champions of RRC List of breeding prefixes of RRC members Breeding breeding: requirements for a stud dog RKF exhibition calendar for 2000 Rules for awarding titles Information about hunting tests Rules for testing hunting dogs for waterfowl Rules for testing hunting dogs for blood trail Test for checking the qualities of hunting dogs for search and retrieval

Review prepared by Olga Teslenko

Russian Retriever Club (RKF)

the oldest club in Russia, engaged in breeding breeding of Labrador Retrievers since 1971, Golden Retrievers — since 1991. It has the most numerous and high-quality stock of Retrievers. RRC has branches in many regions of Russia: in St. Petersburg, Yaroslavl, Tolyatti, Novosibirsk, Vladivostok, Rostov-on-Don, Lipetsk, Tyumen, etc.

Russian Retriever Club holds on November 28, 1999, Autumn breeding exhibition "Retriever – Autumn 99". Quality objective expertise, clear organization of the show, memorable prizes are guaranteed. Inter-expertise in all rings: Z. Brankovic (Yugoslavia). Registration for the exhibition "Retriever – Autumn 99" is only preliminary, with publication in the catalog. For those living in other regions, registration by contact phones of RRC with payment on the day of the exhibition.

Russian Retriever Club offers high-bred puppies of Labrador Retriever black, pale, and brown colors, as well as Golden Retriever puppies from imported and best domestic producers.

In the club, you can purchase: the second supplemented edition of the book "Labrador Retriever" and the book "Golden Retriever", first published in Russia. Video materials, consultations, exhibition handling, veterinary care.

RRC contact phones:

RRC President — Teslenko Natalia Viktorovna: (095) 399-50-51 Vice-President — Myatezhnaya Lyudmila Alexandrovna: 459-83-42 Cynologist — Portyanaya Elena Mikhailovna: 336-88-62

Technical photograph of the route. Taken with a "Helios-44-2" lens (focal length 58 mm) from a distance of ~1 km, height of the shooting point ~ 2900 m.

• route taken by the team