1. The Big Tsey horseshoe (Adai — Ulargee — Zaromag) (a combined route by K. Korolev, 5B cat. of difficulty).

The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (a group of 4–8 people) to the Adai summit is described in route 166.

From the Adai summit, descend down the ice-and-snow SW ridge to the first group of rocks, which are bypassed on the right. Then, 40 m down the steep ice-and-snow slope on the right side of the ridge. Then traverse down to the right along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the snow SW ridge.

Along the snow ridge with rocky sections of medium difficulty in the lower part, approach the steep rocky ridge. Along the steep, heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty rocky ridge descend to a long, gentle ice-and-snow SW ridge, along which approach the rocky "saw".

From under the "saw", descend from the ridge 40–50 m to the left and along the ledges, simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the ridge, bypass the "saw" by traversing. Behind it, ascend to the platform of the snow col between the SW ridge of Adai summit and the gendarme "ZIL" of the E ridge of Zaromag summit. From Adai summit — 6–8 hours.

From the col, along the wide (80–100 m), steep ridge, approach under the wall of the "ZIL" gendarme. Along the rocks of above medium difficulty on the right side of the wall — ascent to the ridge and along it — exit to the "ZIL" gendarme. The further path to Zaromag summit along the E ridge is described in route 178.

From Zaromag, descend along the simple, short, gentle rocky, then snow 200-meter W ridge. Further:

  • Descend to the left along the narrow, steep ice-and-snow 300–400-meter couloir, bypassing the rocky drop of the ridge.
  • From the couloir, traverse to the right along the snow-covered rocky slopes to exit to the ridge connector.
  • From the connector, along the boundary of ice and rocks, bypass two small gendarmes on the left and behind them exit to the col of the snow ridge.
  • Along the snow ridge with small steep ascents, exit to the shoulder of VTsSPS.

From Zaromag — 2–2.5 hours.

From the shoulder of VTsSPS, descend along the rocky W ridge, initially simple, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices), then medium, and in places above medium difficulty, to the middle of the "saw". Here, descend to the left to the ledges, bypass the second part of the "saw" and exit along the talus with emerging simple rocks to the Freshfield pass. From the shoulder of VTsSPS — 5–7 hours.

Further traverse to Mamison see in routes 179, 183, 183. From Mamison:

  • along the gentle, sharp ice-and-snow NW ridge;
  • then along the ice-and-snow slope descend to steep rocks;
  • along the rocks — by rappel and sports method ("live" stones) — to the platform under the "saw" of the ridge col connecting Mamison and Chanckahi.

From Mamison — 5–6 hours.

From the platform, descend to the south along the steep ice-and-snow couloir. Along the boundary of ice and rocks of the steep ice-and-snow slope, bypass the "saw" (stonefall possible) and behind it ascend to the Tsey-Chanchakhi pass. The bypass takes about 2 hours.

Participants who passed in 1972:

  • M. Sorokin
  • Yu. Berkovich
  • V. Korotkoy
  • Yu. Uvarov

Passed the "saw" along the ridge.

Further traverse see in routes:

  • 198
  • 199
  • 204
  • 124
  • 126
  • 117
  • 122
  • 114
  • 112
  • 103
  • 110
  • 99
  • 162
  • 116

Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Sources

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