- Bokos Western (4060 m) via Western Ridge (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29).
The path from the CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau is described in route 83.
From the bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the wide leftmost snow couloir rising to the Western ridge of the Western Bokos peak, to the right (east) of the Big rocky gendarme.
From the plateau, ascend a steep 120-150-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and cross it in the middle part via a snow bridge. Continue up a steep snow slope (avalanche risk) for 150-200 m to the Western Ridge saddle (belay required).
On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snow-covered rocks of the Western Ridge, then a steep 80-100-meter ice and snow slope (running belay) to the Northern Ridge (cornices). Turn right here and:
- ascend a sharp, steep 40-50-meter Northern Ridge (cornices)
- then ascend simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to reach the "Western Bokos" summit.
From the plateau - 3-4 hours.
Descend via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
BUTSP
- KARAUGOMSKIY
- Southern
- Central
- Northern
