- Bocos East (4050 m) via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, Figure 29).
The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak or on the Central branch of Karaugom plateau directly below the peak is described in route 83.
From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) via the Central branch plateau, approach the right side of the long snowy saddle connecting the peak Burevestnik - Karaugomsky on the left with the Bocos massif on the right. From the plateau:
- Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
- Ascend 70-90 m up the steep snowy slope (protection) to the right side of the saddle (cornices)
On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the East ridge of the Bocos massif.
Along the sharp (cornice) snowy East ridge (protection) 150-200 m upwards to the wall of the black gendarme.
Bypass the gendarme on the right.
Then, along the steep snowy ridge-slope (protection), ascend to the ridge of the massif.
Further, along a simple wide ridge, ascend 40-60 m to the peak Vostochny Bocos.
From the plateau, 3-4 hours.
Descent is via the ascent route.
BURSK - KARAUTSKY
- South
- Central
- North
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
