- Bokos West via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A, Fig. 29).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bnuvachnaya peak or on the snow plateau of the Central branch under the Bokos massif is described in route 83.
From the platforms (closed crevices) along the snow plateau of the Central branch, approach the saddle of the ridge connecting the massifs of Bokos on the left and VTsSPs - Karaugomsky on the right. From the plateau, ascend a steep 50-60-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and overcome it via a snow bridge. Further up the steep icy-snow slope, the ascent is 80-100 m to the saddle (with belay).
On the saddle, turn left and exit onto the North Ridge of the Bokos West peak.
Along the snowy, in places sharp (cornice) and steep (with belay) 300-350-meter ridge, and then along simple, crumbling rocks — the ascent to the West Bokos peak.
From the plateau — 3–4 hours.
Descent via the ascent route.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
VTSPS-KARAUGOMSKY
- South
- Central
- North
