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Route Description: 5-му кф. З склона

First ascent of the 1345 m peak (Oplesnina mountain) in the Subpolar Urals via the western slope, complexity category 2A.

Ascent Passport

Region: Subpolar Urals. Ridge: Narod-Itiinsky Ridge (kряж). Valley: Bolshaya Lemva River valley. Mountain massif: main watershed ridge of the Subpolar Urals (section: Lemvaiz peak – Khaimaiz peak) Section number according to KMGV-2001 - №8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Peak name — 1345 (Oplesnina mountain) Height — 1345 Route name — via the fifth spur of the western slope First ascent Proposed category of complexity for inclusion in the KMGV of the Alpine Federation of Russia — 2A category (rocky) Note: The Alpine Federation of the Komi Republic requests the classification commission of the FAR to credit the group of pioneers with the ascent of 2B category. Height difference — 675 m

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Route Description: столбу

Description of the passage of the route 6A category of difficulty along the wall of the Admiralteets peak in the Aksu gorge by a team led by Alexander Shavrovich in August 1990.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category
  2. Ak-su gorge
  3. Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.
  4. Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27?
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Route Description: ЮВ гребню

Ascent to Peak 3914 m via the south-eastern ridge from Butnub Pass, category 1B, first ascent, Dagestan, Nukatl Ridge.

PASSPORT I. Rock class. 2. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge. 3. Peak 3914 m (G. Gamidova) via the south-eastern ridge from Butnub pass 4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 2200 m, length 2200 m, average slope 30°, sections of category 1 difficulty — 200 m, sections of category 2 difficulty — 200 m 6. Pitons and nuts were not used, protection through rock features. 7. Climbing hours — 6 8. Overnight stays: only under the route 9. Leader: Leonov Pyotr Georgievich

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Route Description: левой части СЗ стены

Ascent to the summit Yrydag via the 1st western route up the center of the left part of the NW wall, 5B cat. of difficulty, 1120 m of height difference, 57 hours of climbing time.

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. CAUCASUS, Yaridag massif, Mt Shchedrina 3. Mt Yaridag I-western, 4020 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall. 4. Route category 6B (according to the classification table – 5B category) 5. Route characteristics: — height difference: 1120 m — length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 939 m — average steepness: 68° 6. Pitons hammered: — for belaying: 251

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Ascent to the summit Main Aksaut (3910 m) from the south, category of difficulty 2B, route description and recommendations for climbers.

1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

  • 300–350 m left-up,
  • then 180–200 m right — up,
  • exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further:
  • traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
  • crossing the bergschrund (protection!),
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Route Description: ЮЗ гребню

Ascent to Mount Everest via South Col from 7900, key route points, and ascent statistics.

5090 5120

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Route Description: СЗ ребру

Ascent to Pacheva mountain via Eevervu western edge, category 4A complexity, with route description and characteristic features.

1. Plieva via North-West Ridge, cat. 4A

Text on the diagram: P. PLIEVA BLACK TAKEOFF NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROPE TEAM 3rd ROCK TOWER 2nd ROCK ISLAND 1st ROCK ISLAND

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Route Description: правой части 3 стены

First ascent of Trud peak (4650 m) via the left part of the West face in Trans-Ili Alatau, rated 5B difficulty.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau 3. Peak: Tруд 4650 m via the left part of the West wall, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1010 m. Average steepness 65°. Total route length — 1190 m. Length of sections with 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 480 m. 6. Pitons hammered: insurance and others

  • Rock pitons — 27
  • Ice pitons — 2
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Route Description: 3 гребню

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Taymazi Glavnaya (3803 m) along the western ridge, category 4B, with a technical plan and characteristics of the route.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11

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Route Description: расщелине В стены

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Usan (4379 m) via the crevice on the eastern wall, category 4B complexity level, in Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
  3. Peak — Usan (4379) via the crevice on the eastern wall.
  4. Proposed category — 4B cat. diff., first ascent.
  5. Route length — 765 m. Length of sections with IV–V cat. diff. — 555 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 60°. Height difference — 470 m.
  6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9, chocks — 58.
  7. Climbing hours — 12.
  8. Leader — Sergey G. Kritsuk — 1st sports category.
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