Description

First ascents on v. Nadezhda via the eastern ridge, approximately category 1B difficulty. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the r. Sofiya (orographically) to its confluence with the r. Ak-Airy. Then, up and to the left, along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Ak-Airy to the first belt of "baраньи лбы" ("sheep's foreheads") — 1 hour of walking. The belt of "baраньи лбы" is bypassed from the right, following a small stream. Then, to the left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. The route proceeds up a medium scree slope to a shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy river valley. Here, a green, flat clearing with a nearby stream of clear water makes for a suitable starting bivouac site. From the first belt of "baраньи лбы" — 1 hour. From the starting bivouac, proceed up the valley. The valley levels out after a slight ascent. Ahead, a tongue of a small glacier coming from beneath the Ak-Airy pass comes into view. Cross it in the direction of the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda. The glacier is gentle, crevasse-free, and open. Traverse the southeastern slope of v. Nadezhda with a gradual ascent towards the first major "gendarme" on the eastern ridge. Rope up before reaching the first gendarme! In rope teams, navigate the scree slopes and inclined ledges, bypassing all gendarmes on the left, and ascend in the direction of the pre-summit gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the left up to a couloir (live rocks!!!) that passes between the gendarme and the summit. Up the couloir, straight up for about 60 m, to reach the summit of Nadezhda. From the start of the route to the summit — 1 hour of walking. Descent follows the ascent route.

Fig. 1. Map of the Orlenok massif area. Peaks: Western (3180 m), Main (3190 m), Eastern (3140 m). On the map - З, Гл, В.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz, Psyish River valley
3. Peak, route: Orlenok Eastern, 3140 m via Western spur and South-Eastern ridge
4. Expected complexity category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference:
   • 600 m;
   • total route length - 1500 m;

Peaks:

• Orlenok Eastern (3140.0)
• 3010.0
• 3000.0
• 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) Route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks (3140.0 – 3010.0 – 3000.0 – 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast)" Category — 2B (combined). Leader: V. Babkin. Western Caucasus, Orlenok gully, Karadzhash ridge. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks — 2900, 3000, 3010 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast" 2B category (combined), made on the annual alpinist event "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pa' 2012" (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karadzhash mountain massif. Peaks:

Supplement to the Route Description

Orlyonok NW 3A

Approach and descent path from the Orlyonok valley Approach to the Orlyonok 3A route via the NW ridge. Approximately 1.5 hours from the campsite at the upper lake Technical photo of the 3A Orlyonok NW route from the Orlyonok peak cirque

Description of the Descent from Orlyonok NW Peak

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
3. Peak, route: Oshen Mt. (2804 m) via the right part of the NW bastion
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B, first ascent
5. Wall height difference: 300 m Route length: 440 m Average wall slope: 50°
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. CLIMBING CLASS – rock climbing
2. CLIMBING REGION – Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy Ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofiya and Psysh rivers
3. SUMMIT – peak "Panagyurishte" (proposed by the first ascenders) 3073 m via the 3rd buttress
4. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS – rock climbing on the buttress, height difference – 240 m, average steepness – 45°
5. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY GRADE – 2B
6. PITS DRIVEN – 10 rock anchors for belaying and self-belaying
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME – from the start of the route to the summit 3.5 hours
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHTS – not required on the route

• CLIMB LEADER: Oleinikov N.P. – Candidate Master of Sports

The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:

• to the west — Naur,
• to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
• Northern Psysh,
• Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
• Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
• 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)

DESCRIPTION

ASCENT TO SMIDOVICH PEAK (3359 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (PHOTO № 1, 2, 3, 4)

Smidovich Peak is located in the Kardyvach Lake area, so the base camp for the ascent is set up near Kardyvach Lake.

Approach to the overnight stay at Smidovich Pass:

• Starts from Kardyvach Lake through the gorge of the Upper Mzymta River to the northern wall of Laub Peak.
• A gentle ascent along the snowy slope goes along the Upper Mzymta River, which is hidden under the snow.
• After 2.5 hours, you should reach a steep southwestern grassy slope overgrown with rhododendron, with small rocky outcrops.
• The ascent to the western cirque of Smidovich Peak and the Tsendyshkho peaks takes 1 hour.
• The path continues across the firn of the cirque, leading to the western edge of Smidovich Peak.

Overnight stay features:

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to v. Sofia via the eastern slope and ridge, approximately category 2A difficulty. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk climbers to the Sofiyskiy glacier, emerging under the eastern slopes of v. Sofia – 4 hours. The route initially follows a diagonal ledge, from right to left, passing from "sheep's foreheads" to "sheep's foreheads". The approach involves a steep snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45° – 250–300 m, followed by a wide bergschrund. The "sheep's foreheads" are traversed with piton protection – initially 10 m straight up, then 60 m to the left with a gradual gain in height. Climbing is difficult. The group of six spends 2 hours on this section. After reaching the diagonal ledge, move along it to the left towards a couloir descending from the ridge – 45–60 minutes. Movement is with simultaneous protection. The ledge is snow-covered. Before the couloir, turn right at a 90° angle and climb onto a degraded rocky ridge. The rocks are moderately difficult, with movement on a full rope and simultaneous protection. The ridge has many protrusions that can be used for belaying. The ascent along the ridge takes 1 hour, after which you emerge onto a snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45°. This slope is traversed:

• initially 60 m up and to the left,
• then 30 m up and to the right, emerging onto the eastern ridge – 20–30 minutes.

PASSPORT

1. Class: combined
2. Western Caucasus
3. Peak Сочи (Sochi) by couloir and D.gr.
4. Proposed 2A category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 483 m, length: 680 m average steepness of the route: 45°
6. Pitons hammered: 0, used protection elements: 3
7. Team's moving hours: 9 hours and 1 day
8. Leader: Ivanchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich, 1st sports category