DESCRIPTION

ASCENT TO SMIDOVICH PEAK (3359 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (PHOTO № 1, 2, 3, 4)

Smidovich Peak is located in the Kardyvach Lake area, so the base camp for the ascent is set up near Kardyvach Lake.

Approach to the overnight stay at Smidovich Pass:

• Starts from Kardyvach Lake through the gorge of the Upper Mzymta River to the northern wall of Laub Peak.
• A gentle ascent along the snowy slope goes along the Upper Mzymta River, which is hidden under the snow.
• After 2.5 hours, you should reach a steep southwestern grassy slope overgrown with rhododendron, with small rocky outcrops.
• The ascent to the western cirque of Smidovich Peak and the Tsendyshkho peaks takes 1 hour.
• The path continues across the firn of the cirque, leading to the western edge of Smidovich Peak.

Overnight stay features:

• Located near Smidovich Pass.
• Water is available near Smidovich Pass.
• Only the upper part of the peak is visible from the overnight stay.

The journey from the base camp to the overnight stay takes 4.5 hours.

From the overnight stay, the path to the peak follows the ridge, which soon takes a southeast direction. The ridge is well-defined, consisting of crystalline schist and granite, and is therefore heavily eroded in places, requiring caution when traversing.

The first and second gendarmes are ascended directly with alternating belay. The transition from the first gendarme to the second is made via a steep internal angle. Belay is done using pitons.

Between the second and third gendarmes:

• The ridge turns into a "saw," which is traversed with careful belay.
• The rocks are heavily eroded, posing a potential risk of rope damage.

Third gendarme:

• Bypassed on the right.
• Piton belay.

Fourth gendarme:

• The ridge becomes a jagged fourth gendarme, which is ascended directly (see photo № 1).

Fifth gendarme:

• Bypassed via a couloir.
• EXIT TO THE COL.

SIXTH GENDARME:

• LOCATED BEFORE THE COL, BEFORE THE PRE-SUMMIT WALL.
• CAN BE ASCENDED DIRECTLY OR BYPASSSED VIA SNOW (SNOW-ICE SECTION).

GENERAL INFORMATION:

• THE RIDGE ASCENT TO THE PRE-SUMMIT WALL TAKES 5–5.5 HOURS.
• THE CHALLENGING SECTION IS A 200-METER ROCK WALL (60–65° STEEPNESS), WHICH LEADS TO THE PRE-SUMMIT RIDGE OF SMIDOVICH PEAK.
• IN APRIL–MAY: TO OVERCOME THE WALL, USE A STEEP AND NARROW COULOIR, STAYING ON THE LEFT SIDE.
• BELAY: PITON (SOMETIMES VIA ICE AXE), SOMETIMES FIRN.
• See photo № 2.

Overcoming the wall takes 1–1.5 hours. After the couloir, exit onto the middle rocks and then onto a gentle snowy slope, which leads to the summit (see photo № 3). Descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent to Smidovich Peak with an overnight stay on the ridge and descent to the base camp takes 12–13 hours.

The group considers the route to Smidovich Peak via the southeast ridge to be category 3B.

Group composition: