Report

On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

3. Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B

М92. Dolomit Severny - Yuzhny traverse with ascent via the western wall (rock route, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severny is done via the left variant of the М89 route. From R1, move left under the black wet slabs. Then right-upwards along the wall composed of individual blocks and internal corners (good placement for protection with nuts). At the end of the wall, a large boulder serves as a landmark. On the green ledge, protection is via a flake. Then, via an internal corner, another green ledge, and one more internal corner, ascend to a large talus ledge R8. The further ascent follows the М89 route. From the Northern summit, descend along the severely degraded ridge to the col towards the Central summit. The ascent to it is done from the left of the ridge, along the boundary between snow and rock, and via a steep snowy ascent. The further traverse to the Southern summit follows the М91 route. The section R14-R13 is traversed from the left along a rock flake and the boundary between snow and rock (good placement for large-sized nuts). The rocks here are wet, with water dripping, and in the mornings, there is ice. The descent from the Southern summit follows the М84 route.

From the col, descend three rock "steps" of a жандарм on the right, and the fourth one — on the left, to reach the snowy ridge, along which ascend to Dolomit Tsentral'nyy. From the Malyy peak — 3 hours. The further traverse follows route М86.

• Departure time from the bivouac — not later than 4 am;
• On the traverse section, it is practically possible to organize an overnight stay at any col;
• The route is completed within one daylight day.

М92. Dolomit Severnyy — Yuzhnyy via the western wall ascent

(route is rock, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severnyy is made

Report on the First Ascent to v. Zamok from the Northwest (Training Gathering of the Central Council of the LOKOMOTIV Sports Society)

Southeast Ridge of v. Zamok

(View from v. Burevestnik) View of v. Zamok from the ridge of v. Dolomit. The route of the first ascent to v. Zamok from the northwest wall.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• rock

2. Ascent Area

• Western Caucasus, Gvandrinsky region

3. Peak, Route

• Zamok — 3930 m, south-southeast wall, first ascent, 5B cat. diff.

4. Route Characteristics:

• height difference to the summit — 850 m
• wall height difference — 550 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock 2. Ascent area: Uzunkol — West Caucasus 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate details): Zamok peak South wall 3930 m 4. Ascent characteristics: route length to the summit: 1200 m wall height difference: 670 m average wall steepness: 84–85° length of complex wall sections: 510 m

10. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: rock
2. Climbing area: Gvandra region of the Caucasus
3. Climbing route: v. Zamok via the South wall, 3930 m
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85°, length of complex section — 600 m
5. Pitons driven:

• rock — 228
• bolt — 7
• chocks — 9

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Kirpich peak 3744 m, right part of the Western wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 850 m
6. Pitons hammered for belaying:
   • rock pitons — 32 pcs.
   • bolt pitons — 0
   • ice pitons — 0

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: