3. Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B
From the "Uzungol" camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the koshi. Follow along the stream along the path up to a large green terrace. From here, via grassy rocks and scree, reach Dolomite Lake — the bivouac site. 3.5–4 hours from the camp. From the bivouac, follow the moraine, bypassing the second lake on the right, and then via snowy slopes, reach the saddle between South Dolomite and the peak 40 Years of the Tatar ASSR. From the saddle, go up via scree to the first wall. Ascend the wall leftwards-upwards (belay!). Behind the wall, via steep slabs, go rightwards-upwards to the next wall, into an inner corner (belay! Pitons!). Then go up the corner to a very small ledge, from which the ascent goes leftwards-upwards via sheer blocks-slab and wall, exiting beyond the bend (belay!). Further movement is along a monolithic, very difficult 40 m wall with overhanging sections (the passage is very tense. Only piton belays!). Behind the wall, via steep slabs, reach a small ledge under a similar wall. Cross the wall (only piton belays!) and then via slabs reach a short, sharp ridge. From the sharp ridge crest, exit onto a negative wall with an overhang. (Use ladders. Only piton belays). Behind the overhang, via complex rocks — 40 m (belay!) reach a ledge — a "dent". From here, leftwards-upwards and through an 8-meter sheer (belay!) wall onto very steep slabs. 30 m along the slabs (belay!) to a ledge-niche and further traverse leftwards-upwards along the wall and slabs for 25 m (pitons!) onto the ridge. (Powerful rocks). Along the ridge and scree slope, exit to the summit. 9–10 hours from the bivouac. Descend from the summit along the southern ridge to the saddle towards the Chungur-Jar gorge. From the saddle, leftwards-downwards and further, bypassing the continuation of the southern ridge on the right, and ascend from the south side to the saddle between South Dolomite and the peak 40 Years of the Tatar ASSR and then to the bivouac. 2.5–3 hours from the summit to the bivouac.
The route is recommended only for sports groups with high rock climbing skills, and as a training ascent before routes of category 5B.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group — 4 people
- Initial bivouac — I Dolomite Lake
- Departure time from the bivouac — no later than 4:00 am
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) rope — 2 × 40 m; b) expendable reepschnur — 10 m; c) rock pitons — 13–15 pieces, including 5–6 petal pitons; d) rock hammers — 2 pieces; e) carabiners — 10–12 pieces; f) ladders — 3 pieces
