Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Mor­che­ka — a for­got­ten mountain. Guide­book. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder Category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration.

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Dzaparidze and G. Niguriiani ascended to the Main peak from the Lekzyr glacier off the Mestia pass via a Category 3B route, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass via a Category 2B route. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were made, Category 4B:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east,
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — a first ascent via the "board" to the Western peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, Category 5A — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov.

PASSPORT

1. Region, gorge, section number according to KMGV-2001:

2.4. From Chipperazau pass to Gumači peak (Baksan gorge).

2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route:

Azau-Bashi, 3695 m, via the Eastern ridge. 3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent. 4. Character of the route — combined. 5. Height difference of the route — 500 m; length of the route — 1075 m; there are no sections of V and VI category; average steepness: main part of the route — 55°;

4

The Lesser Donguz-Orun is located in the smooth Zakavkazsky ridge between Lecho to the east and Donguz-Orun to the west. The height of the peak is 1468 m. To the northwest lies the middle peak of Donguz-Orun. From the middle peak of Donguz-Orun, a ridge branches off, which turns west and, through a saddle, forms a Makra-Tau pyramid (or May Donguz-Orun - 1440 meters). The western ridge, Nakra-Tau, steeply descends to the Donguz-Orun pass. This is the eastern ridge that runs from the Donguz-Orun peak along the Songi valley to the Becho pass. The third ridge branches off from the middle peak of Donguz-Orun in a northeasterly direction to the Kogu-Tau-Veti peak. The northern wall of the peak is trapped by snow firn and drop-offs, feeding the left branch of the Isegi glacier. The western slope of the peak drops steeply to the Donguz-Orun glacier. On the wall, two cross-shaped narrow glaciers are clearly visible. At the peak, there is a huge firn field that feeds the Nakra, Kapp, and Dakra glaciers.

в. Советский воин — в. Кезген — в. Кубасанты! img-0.jpeg Taken on July 2, 1986 at 6:00 PM from the southern spur of в. Кубасанты. Camera "Salut-C", lens "Mir-26B", F=45 mm. ROUTE SCHEME IN LIMB VOLA U I A A:

• Кубасанты
• Советский воин
• 2Б кат. сл., traverse

View of the Ирикчат gorge from в. Череткара

Report

on the first ascent of the South Ushba (4710 m) west wall by the "Digoriya" alpine camp team consisting of:

• 1. Slesov I.V. — team captain, Master of Sports of the USSR
• 2. Shevandrin N.I. — deputy captain, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 3. Dzhioev G.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• 4. Mikhalev V.E. — Candidate for Master of Sports Rostov-on-Don 1977