Ascent to Sportivnaya peak from the northwest via Sportivny glacier, route 2nd cat. dif. From Talgar alpine camp:

• East along the trail
• Past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge
• Turn right
• Initially along the grassy slope
• Then along the large moraine stones of Sportivny glacier The moraine has elevation changes. Overnight stay on the moraine. From the overnight site, reach the snowy slope of the ridge branching off from Sportivnaya peak

Minutes of the Uzelskaya Classification Commission Meeting

July 29, 1978 Talgar Alpine Camp The Uzelskaya Classification Commission, appointed by the authorized Sports Committee of the USSR for the Tian-Shan region, Comrade R.P. Stroganov (order No. 6 dated July 28, 1978), consisting of:

1. V.N. Zapeka — senior instructor, Master of Sports — Chairman of the Commission
2. A.V. Kelberg — senior instructor, Master of Sports — member of the commission
3. E.L. Vardanov — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
4. V.A. Ganyalin — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
5. V.I. Shabrukov — instructor, 1st sports category — member

TALGAR — main peak (5017 m)

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Ascent to the Main peak of Talgar via the West wall, route 4B cat. difficulty (Fig. 41, 41a). From the Talgar mountaineering camp along the trail upstream along the Middle Talgar gorge to the Edelweiss glade. Turn towards the South Talgar glacier. It takes two hours to reach the glacier tongue. From here, along the right lateral moraine of the glacier, overcoming numerous crevices, there is an exit to a gently sloping (20°) glacier slope covered with small stones. Having ascended along this section of the glacier, exit to the left lateral moraine. Here is a possible overnight stay location. From here, the route begins. The path goes along an ice couloir, expanding in the upper part, with a steepness of 35–40°, and a length of about 450 m. The couloir leads to the ridge of the western counterfort of the South Talgar peak. On the left side, the couloir is bounded by ice-covered rocks, and on the right, it turns into ice walls. The ascent should be started from the left part of the couloir, along the ice slope, sticking to the rocks. Walk in crampons; in the upper part, step cutting is necessary. It takes 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach the ridge. Here is an overnight stay location. On the next day, the path begins with two ice ascents with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of about 500 m. In the upper part of the ascents, there is a small icefall. Walk the entire time in crampons. Crevices are not wide and are easily crossed. In some places, there is burned ice, requiring piton belay and step cutting. After 2–3 hours, there is an exit to an ice ascent, and then, after 15–20 minutes of walking along a descending snow-ice plateau, heading east, approach the base of the West wall of the Main Talgar peak.

Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge

Route description.

The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°. Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

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Ascent Description to Peak Gagarina via

Verchina Uglovaya (Peak Pravdy)

Verchina Uglovaya is located in the upper reaches of the Kargalinskoye gorge. The summit stands somewhat apart, west of the peaks that make up the Kargalinskaya horseshoe. From Verchina Uglovaya, the Main Ridge branches off to the north, ending at Peak Pervomayskiy. Uglovaya peak is named so because it is located in the southwest corner of the horseshoe. The height of the peak is 4100 m. The route begins from the Kargalinsky glacier, where the climbers' camp is located. You should move along the glacier, leaving Peak 3950 m to the right (in the direction of travel), with a subsequent exit to the saddle between Verchina Uglovaya and Peak 3950 m. The ascent to the saddle is via a snowfield, and in the upper part - via scree. The path along the ridge to the first ice ascent is straightforward. The exit to the summit itself is via a steep glacier from the north.

Ice and rock sections of the route:

• The first ascent is 40 m. It is more convenient to go along the right ice part of the route via a rocky ridge. Steepness is 60°, in the upper part - 70°–75°. Insurance through ledges.
• The second ice section is a continuation of the first. Steepness 60°–65°, length - 30 m. You should go with insurance via pitons and chopping steps. In July, there is compacted snow in these areas, and it is not necessary to chop steps.
• The final section is an ascent along moderately difficult rocks to the summit tower (60°).

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

From the city of Almaty, drive along the highway to the "Leninets" pioneer camp. Then, proceed along the right (orographically) side of the gorge until the confluence of three rivers:

• Levyy Aksay
• Sredniy Aksay
• Pravyy Aksay It takes 4 hours from the pioneer camp. The further path lies along the valley of the Sredniy Aksay River, on the right (orographically) side, leading to a large rock fragment (big stone) lying in the river floodplain — 2 hours from the confluence of the rivers. Here is the initial bivouac. Above the parking area near the Big Stone, cross the Aksay River and begin ascending along the grassy slope in the direction of the scree. Upon reaching the level of the scree, ascend along the right edge of the scree, along the grassy slope, partially along the rocky outcrops of the slope, and ascend to the green shoulder, from which the route begins on the left.

Description of the Route of the Eastern Ridge to Peak Bogdan Khmelnitsky

R1. Ascend from the river along the grassy slope to the green shoulder.

Ascent Passport

1. Class: ice-snow
2. Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak 5581 (p. Dobrovol'skogo) via the right part of the North face
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, route length — 2200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1200 m. Average steepness of the main sections is 75° (4250–5000), including 540 m of 6 category of difficulty.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |

R12 15­m 50 11

• 40­m 20 11
• R2 60­m 45 11
• R2 45­m 65 11
• R7 110­m 25 30 11
• R6 40­m 65 11
• R2 40­m 70 11
• R4 80­m 35 11
• R2 60­m 40 11
• R2 30­m 45 11

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Konstantinov G.A. 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Popov M.L. CMS, Semenova O.A. 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Motienko N.I. CMS
1.4	Organization	Fri-line MAC
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Caucasus, Kabardino-Balkaria