Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock
2. Ascent area: recreation centre "Uzunkol"
3. Ascent route indicating peaks, their altitudes, route complexity (and other approximate details): — peak Kirpich, 3744 m above sea level, 6B, via the North-Northeast wall.
4. Ascent characteristics: — Route length (wall): 1080 m — Height difference (wall): 850 m — Average steepness (wall): 78° — Length of difficult sections:

PASSPORT

I. Category — rock. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. 3. Pik Kirpich — via the "diamond" on the western wall. 4. 6A category difficulty (route by Yu. Manoylov, 1968) 5. Route length: 1070 m Height difference on the route: 840 m Average steepness of the wall section: 77° Height difference of the wall section: 440 m Length of the wall section: 490 m

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol area, Myrdy gorge, section number according to the classification table 2.3
2. Kirpich peak, via the "diamond" on the Western wall (Yu. Manoylov's route)
3. 6A category of complexity
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 800 m Route length: 1010 m Length of sections: 5th category of complexity — 155 m, 6th category of complexity — 125 m Average steepness: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 62°

Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge.
3. Peak Kirpich, 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the West Wall
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference — 860 m (2940–3800), wall section — 460 m (2940–3400) Length — 1055 m, wall section — 505 m. Length of sections:

• 6th cat. diff. — 130 m
• 5th cat. diff. — 270 m

1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582)

I. Rock Class

1. Rock Class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Peak "Kirpich", 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the western wall
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 710 m, length — 960 m, length of sections with R5–R6 difficulty — 330 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 85°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 39 (new), 4 (previously hammered)
   • bolt: 15 (new), 8 (previously hammered)
   • chocks: 69 (new), 8 (previously hammered)

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. 3. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. 4. Sixth ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths:

• R6 — 250 m,
• R5 — 90 m,
• R4 — 20 m.

CIS Championship 2007

High-altitude technical class Classification Commission of the FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to peak Kirpich (3800 m) via the left part of the Western wall, category 6A (KTMGV item 2.3), made by the team of the Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Team leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor 2nd category Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Master of Sports, instructor 1st category. Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Chairman: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilievich Ukraine, 91005, Dalnevostochnaya str., 2D

I. North Caucasus Championship in the name of S. M. Kirov

Category of technically complex ascents

Report on the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhara via the north-eastern edge, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

Team composition:

1. Team leader — Pomazuev V. V., born 1941, Candidate Master of Sports, "Burevestnik", Kiev
2. Deputy leader — Savchuk V. A., born 1940, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev
3. Participant — Yakovlev V. A., born 1938, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev
4. Participant — Kuzmuk V. V., born 1952, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev
5. Participant — Bodnik V. N., born 1949, Candidate Master of Sports, Kiev

The peak B. Nakhar 3780 m is located in one of the spurs of the Greater Caucasus Range. The climbing area is characterized by a significant distance between the base camp and the nearest settlement. From Uchkulan, a mountain road goes along the Gondoray valley to the reserve. This road often becomes impassable for vehicles in bad weather. It takes 3 hours to drive from Uchkulan to the reserve. Then the road goes to the Makhar valley, to the right and up to the tourist camp "Globus" and further to the narzan springs, then through a swampy lowland to the logging area, near which there is a large clearing ending with a log across the Makhar River. In good weather, a car can drive right up to the clearing, which becomes impossible after heavy rains. Our car was able to pass along the road through the swamp after five days of excellent weather. From the bridge, the trail goes along the right bank of the Makhar River to a side valley leading to peak Nakhar. From the point where the stream flows into the river, the trail follows the stream and moraine through:

• sheep's foreheads,
• glacier, to the base camp location on a lateral moraine. It takes two days to travel from the bridge to the base camp. This time depends on the amount of gear for the planned number of days. It is convenient to set up the base camp in the upper part of the moraine, where it flattens out noticeably. The route to peak B. Nakhar was first climbed in 1974 by a group from L.O.S.D.S.O. "Zenit" via the northeast wall, category 6B. The team consisted of:
• I. Korablin — captain