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Route Description: с севера
Climb description of a Kazakh team on Hidden Peak (8068 m) in Karakoram via a combined route, rated 6A in difficulty.
- Karakorum mountain system
- Hidden Peak, 8068 m
- Cat. of diff. — 6A approximately
- Route type — combined
- Route elevation gain — 2768 m Route length — 12180 m. Section lengths:
- V cat. of diff. — 80 m
- VI cat. of diff. — 0
- Pitons left on the route: total — 25 Pitons used:
Route Description: с севера
Ascent to the summit of Hidden Peak (8068 m) in Karakoram via the Northwest Face, route difficulty category, team composition, and ascent details.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing area: Karakoram
- Ascent class: High-altitude
- Peak: Hidden Peak (8068 m) via NW wall couloir (Japanese couloir)
- Route difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain from base camp 2918 m
- length of sections with 5th category difficulty 400 m
- average steepness (6500 m – summit) 50°
- Pitons driven
Route Description: С стене
Route passport 6B cat. tr. Direkt de Ametue on Grand Jorasses (4184 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, climbed by climbers from Magnitogorsk in 1998.
Passport
- Class — rock climbing category of the 1998 Russian Alpinism Championship
- Alps — France, Mont Blanc massif
- Peak — Grandes Jorasses, pointe Walker (4184 m)
- Route — 6B category of difficulty, Direkt de Ametue (conditional rating –4.0)
- Length — 1420 m
- Length of wall section — 1420 m
- Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1100 m including 6 category of difficulty — 480 m
- Height difference — 1180 m
Route Description: СЗ склону
Ascent of Mont Blanc (4810 m) via the classic route of the south-east ridge in the Savoyard Alps, France, on July 18-19, 2008.
Savoy Alps, France,
July 18-19, 2008
Climbing Passport
- Savoy Alps, France
- Mont Blanc, Southeast ridge, via the classic route.
- Estimated difficulty: 2A.
- Route type: snow and ice climb.
- Elevation gain: approximately 1610 m (3200–4810).
- Leadership: Dusharin Ivan Trofimovich — Master of Sports, 1st category;
Route Description: центр. Кф. ЮВ стены с пер Экклес
Report on the ascent made by a team from Moscow, Tomsk and Omsk Region to Mont Blanc 4810 m via Innominata route, category 5B.
Report
On the Ascent of the Combined Team from Moscow, Tomsk, and Omsk Region to Mont Blanc 4810 m
via the Central Counterfort of the Southeast Face with the Eccles Pass, Innominata Route Presumably 5B Category of Difficulty Smailkina S.V. — Team Leader Prilepskaya N.E. Gorodetskaya O.A.
Climbing Team Members
- Smailkina Svetlana Vladimirovna, Master of Sports, Tomsk. Coach — Sapunova Yu.V. Phone: +7 923 409 10 17. Email: talery@mail.ru
- Team Leader — Prilepskaya Natalia Evgenievna, Master of Sports. Coach — Kuznetsova E.V.
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the ascent of the MEI Climbers and Mountaineers Club team to Urrielu Peak via the "Winter Dreams" route, category 6B complexity.
Moscow Alpine Championship 2011. Technical Climbing Category
Climbing Report
Report on the ascent of Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes) 2519 m by the team from the MPEI Alpine Club and Climbing School via the Northwest Wall, category 6B, route "Sueños de Invierno" (Winter Dreams) by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díaz, March 1 – May 8, 1983 (69 days) October 5, 2011
Climbing Details
- Cantabrian Mountains, Picos de Europa region, Spain.
- Picu Urriellu 2519 m, (Naranjo de Bulnes) via Northwest Wall (route "Sueños de Invierno")
- Proposed category: 6B
- Route type: rock climbing
- Height difference: 470 m
Route Description: Ю гребню
Report on the ascent of the "Polytechnic" mountaineering team to the summit of Chapelle de la Glière via the southern ridge, a Category 3B climb.
Report
On the ascent of Chapelle de la Glière peak, category 3B, by the "Polytechnic" mountaineering club team on July 29, 2018.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Mikhail Vladimirovich Lobanov, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Alexey Alexeyevich Belyaev, 2nd sports rank, Yulia Alexandrovna Belyaeva, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Vladimir Alexandrovich Molodozhen |
| 1.4 | Organization | "Polytechnic" mountaineering club |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: З склону, м-т Бутреса
Report on the ascent of the Russian team to Mount McKinley (6194 m) via the West Buttress in 1998.
Passport
- High-altitude technical class
- Alaska, Alaska Range
- Peak McKinley (Denali) 6194 m via West Counterforce
- Proposed category of complexity — 5B
- Elevation gain — 4000 m, length — 26 km, average steepness of main part — 20°
- Ice screws used — 15 pcs., anchors — 2 pcs.
- Team's travel days — 8 (ascent), 3 (descent)
- Overnights (total) — 15 on snow-ice platforms
- Team captain — Yanochkin V. I. (MSMK)
Route Description: З гребню
Report on the ascent of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Federation team to the summit of McKinley via the West Rib in 2008.
Chelyabinsk Region Alpinism Federation High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category
Report
on the ascent to the summit of McKinley, 6196 m, via West Rib approximately 5B category of difficulty
Climbing Passport
- Competition class: Russian Championship, high-altitude technical class
- Region — Alaska, Alaska Range;
- Summit — McKinley 6196 m;
- Ascent route: via West Rib;
Route Description: Ю ребру
First ascent of the Southern Ridge of Pik Voennyh Topografov (6873 m) in Chinese Tien Shan, rated 5B-6A.
- High-altitude and technical class
- Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China).
- Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent).
- Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately)
- Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,