Passport

1. Class — rock climbing category of the 1998 Russian Alpinism Championship
2. Alps — France, Mont Blanc massif
3. Peak — Grandes Jorasses, pointe Walker (4184 m)
4. Route — 6B category of difficulty, Direkt de Ametue (conditional rating –4.0)
5. Length — 1420 m
6. Length of wall section — 1420 m
7. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1100 m including 6 category of difficulty — 480 m
8. Height difference — 1180 m
9. Average wall steepness — 75°
10. Pitons hammered:

Note: * — previously hammered pitons used; — used for aid climbing

11. Climbing hours — 58 h, days worked on the route — 4.5 days
12. Bivouacs — 4 on the wall, sitting, semi-reclining
13. Rope team: Sibayev Mingalim Minsalimovich — Master of Sports Soldatov Sergey Yuryevich — Master of Sports
14. Coach — Soldatov Sergey Yuryevich
15. Exit to the route — June 30, 1998, 4:30 AM Summit — July 4, 1998, 2:05 PM Return — July 5, 1998
16. Organization — Alpinist Club of Magnitogorsk

Signatures:

• M. Sibayev
• S. Soldatov

Face Nord des Grandes Jorasses (photo by P. TAIRRAZ, Chamonix)

• Route "Direkt de AMETUE", ascended by the rope team from the Magnitogorsk Alpinist Club, M. Sibayev — S. Soldatov.
• Route "NO SIESTA" — A. Ruchkin — R. Zaitov.
• Route "MANITUA" — V. Igolkin — Yu. Oleinikov.

Russian Championship (super league), rock climbing category, July 1998