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Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the Shkhelda alpine camp team on August 15, 2022.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the team of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 15, 2022
I. Ascent Log
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Murzich Alexander Yuryevich, 3rd category 2. Kovshik Vladimir Leonidovich, 3rd category 3. Titova Natalia Yuryevna, 3rd category |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKhelda" (alplager "SHKhelda") |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: Траверс
Report on the first ascent of a traverse of three peaks in the Caucasus, category 3A, completed by a group from the Shkhelda alpine camp on July 28, 2022.
Report
on the first ascent of the traverse of three peaks:
- p. 3657
- peak 3472 (peak Novorossiysk)
- p. 3440 (Bivachnaya) 3A cat. diff. by the group of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 28, 2022 Participants:
- Korolev A.V.
- Dedyukhin M.E.
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak 3545 via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B, accomplished by the Shkhelda alpine camp group on June 23, 2021.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak 3545 (Peak Yubileiny) via the East Ridge, category 2B, by the team from the "SHKELDA" alpine camp June 21, 2021
I. Ascent Passport
| № item | 1. General Information | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, CMS | ||||||||
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | 1. Belousov Alexey Georgievich, 3rd sports rank 2. Buyanov Yan Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank 3. Prigolovkina Alla Igorevna, 3rd sports rank 4. Rabdanov Bator Tsybanovich, 3rd sports rank | ||||||||
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich | ||||||||
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKELDA" (alpine camp "SHKELDA") |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Tegelenbashi peak via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B difficulty level, in the Caucasus.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi
Via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B (approximately) complexity AM LLC "Alpine Camps Management" "ADYL-SU 2022" October 31, 2022
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi via the South-Eastern Edge, a Category 2A climb, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Solovei Aleksei Igorevich, Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Belyaev Vladimir Viktorovich, badge holder Voinov Alexander Alexandrovich, 2nd sports rank Lovushkin Aleksei Nikolaevich, 3rd sports rank Prokopchuk Dmitry Igorevich, badge holder |
Route Description: З склону
Report on the first ascent to the 3310 m peak via the Western slope, category 2A difficulty, in the Shkhelda alpine camp on July 5, 2023.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit 3310 m (300 years of the RAS) via the Western slope, category 2A, by the group from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp on July 5, 2023
I. Climbing Report Form
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the participants | 1. Belousov Alexey Georgievich, 3rd sports rank 2. Nikitin Andrey Borisovich, CMS |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "Shkhelda" (alpine camp "Shkhelda") |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climb |
Route Description: Ю кф. ЮВ гребня
**Ascent of the Georgian Alpine Club team to the summit of Ai-Lama via the southern wall in 1963, route description, and technical difficulty of the climb.**
ASCENT ON AILAMA VIA THE SOUTH FACE
Report
of the combined team of climbers from the A. Japaridze Georgian Alpine Club,
Tbilisi, 1965
THE AILAMA MASSIF FROM THE SOUTH.
Introduction
The Ailama massif stretches in a latitudinal direction. To the west, Ailama is adjacent to the peaks of Nuamkuam and the Bezengi Wall, separated from Ailama by a low, heavily dissected ridge with numerous gendarmes and deep gaps. The Main Caucasian Range runs south from Ailama to the peak of Tsurungal and further to the Ardon River gorge, where the Digor chain continues.
Route Description: Ю кф. ЮВ гребня
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Aidam (4537 m) via the southern counterfort and wall, including technical details and complexity categories.
Description of the Ascent Route to the Summit of AYILAMA via the South Face
The summit of AYILAMA (4537 m) is located in the MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE between the peaks of NUAM-KUAM (4283 m) to the west and TSURUNGAL (4342 m) to the east. The lower, base part of the summit is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. The upper part rises as inaccessible vertical bastions made of light gray granite. The grandiose South Face of AYILAMA towers directly above the "AYILAMA" alpine camp. The path from the "AYILAMA" alpine camp goes along a trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Koruldashi River, then the trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank and proceeds along an old moraine overgrown with forest. This moraine leads to a small glacier, covered with snow and rocks, under the South Face of AYILAMA. To the left lies the icefall of the Koruldashi Glacier. In the lower part of the face, three counterforts are clearly visible, separated by couloirs.
Route Description: ЮВ стене Ю жандарма
Traverse of Belaya and Chornaya Neznakomka with ascent to Upper Dome via the South-East Wall, grade 4B, 18-20 climbing hours.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
19
- Climbing category — rock climbing
- Climbing area, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Kitlod pass to Gezevtsеg pass.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of Belaya Neznakomka (4200) — Chyornaya Neznakomka (4100) with ascent to the South Gendarme of Belaya Neznakomka via the southeast wall.
- Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
- Route characteristics: a) height difference 600–700 m; b) average steepness — 60°
- Pitons hammered: — for belay, for intermediate rock anchors: 35 — ice screws: 6
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the 4B category climbing route to the Jaylyk summit with a detailed analysis of the path, belay, and descent.
The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:
- to the Donkina pass,
- the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
- the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: