Description of the Ascent Route to the Summit of AYILAMA via the South Face
The summit of AYILAMA (4537 m) is located in the MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE between the peaks of NUAM-KUAM (4283 m) to the west and TSURUNGAL (4342 m) to the east. The lower, base part of the summit is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. The upper part rises as inaccessible vertical bastions made of light gray granite. The grandiose South Face of AYILAMA towers directly above the "AYILAMA" alpine camp.
The path from the "AYILAMA" alpine camp goes along a trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Koruldashi River, then the trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank and proceeds along an old moraine overgrown with forest. This moraine leads to a small glacier, covered with snow and rocks, under the South Face of AYILAMA. To the left lies the icefall of the Koruldashi Glacier. In the lower part of the face, three counterforts are clearly visible, separated by couloirs.
The ascent begins on a snow cone with a slope of 30–35°, exiting from the couloir between the left and middle counterforts. The bergschrund at the top of the cone is overcome from the right. The distance from the glacier to the bergschrund is 150–200 m. 50–60 m above the bergschrund, a ledge is visible to the right, which leads to the central lower counterfort. The path then goes up via easy, heavily fragmented rocks, sticking to the central part of this counterfort. After about 250–300 m, the rocks gradually become moderately difficult. The lower part of the counterfort is climbed simultaneously, the upper part is climbed in turns (belay via outcrops). The counterfort is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. Great caution is required due to the presence of many "live" rocks. The average slope of the counterfort is 45–50°. The counterfort leads directly to the South Face of AYILAMA. The length of the counterfort is 500–600 m. The rocks of the face are starkly different from those of the counterfort. The face rocks are made of light gray granite, fairly monolithic. The counterfort rocks are dirty-brown in color. At the junction of the face and the counterfort, a sharp boundary is visible.
Above this boundary rises a 45–50 m wall. The rocks are difficult, but with a sufficient number of small holds. This section is climbed directly, with thorough piton belay. Directly above the wall lies a snow-ice slope, with a slope of 45–50°, and a length of 250–300 m. The slope is climbed straight up on crampons towards the second wall. Belay on the slope is via pitons. It is better to traverse this slope in the morning hours. In the upper part, the snow slope transitions into a rock wall, 150–170 m long. The rocks are very difficult. Thorough piton belay is required.
Passage of the wall: — The first 40 m are climbed directly on the central part of the wall. — To the right of the wall, a steep ice couloir is visible. Bypassing via the couloir is no less difficult, but more dangerous due to falling rocks. — After 20 m of difficult climbing, a three-meter smooth wall without holds is encountered, fissured at the top by a vertical crack suitable for a piton. — It is better for the first climber to pass this section without a backpack. — A piton is driven into the crack, and a ladder is hung. — Using this artificial aid, the wall is overcome, and a vertical rock groove filled with ice and rocks is reached.
Further path: — Alternating between the right and left sides of the groove (extremely difficult climbing, thorough piton belay required). — A ledge under an overhanging rock cornice is visible slightly to the right of the groove — it needs to be reached (distance from the foot of the wall to the ledge is 80–90 m). — Then the path goes traversing to the right (15–20 m) to a wide (0.5–0.6 m) crack. — To the right, vertical walls drop down — thorough piton belay required. — The path then goes straight up the crack. — Entering the crack is very difficult due to the lack of sufficient holds. — The first climber should pass this section without a backpack. — After passing the crack, continue traversing the wall to the right and up, to a small rock ledge. — After the ledge: — Straight up (20 m), — Then traversing left and up (30 m) to the next rock ledge. — From this ledge, straight up (20 m) leads to the upper part of the wall.
Climbing is very difficult, belay is via pitons.
From the wall, a snow ridge with a cornice on the right (along the route) side branches off upwards. The slope of the ridge is about 45°, its length is 120–150 m. The ridge is climbed with belay via ice axe. (Caution is required when passing along the cornice).
The ridge leads to a rock wall, rising in two tiers and leading to the ridge east of the AYILAMA summit. To the left of the wall, a steep snow-ice couloir (50°) with three ice grooves passes. To the left along the route, the couloir is bounded by a snow ridge, which goes towards the pre-summit ridge, gradually transitioning into a wide firn slope with a slope of 50–55°.
The further path goes up the wall, to the right (along the route) 10–15 m from the couloir. Climbing is difficult due to snow-covered and partly ice-glazed rocks. After 60–70 m, a snow-covered ledge is reached. At this point, the couloir to the left of the wall is the narrowest.
From the snow-covered ledge, traverse left, crossing the snow-ice couloir towards the firn ridge (60 m). The couloir should be traversed on crampons with belay via ice screws. The exit from the couloir to the ridge is steep (60°). Then the path goes along the ridge, transitioning into a steep firn-ice slope, which leads to the ridge east of the summit. The length of the ridge and firn-ice slope is 300–350 m. Belay is via ice axe and pitons. Caution is required due to small cornices on both sides of the ridge in some places. It is better to pass this section in the morning hours on the front points of crampons.
When exiting from the firn-ice slope to the rocks of the ridge (35–40 m), belay is via pitons.
The path then goes northwest (left along the route) along the snow ridge (100–200 m) to the summit. Movement should be alternating due to huge cornices hanging to the north. A cairn is built on the outcropping rocks at the western summit. Descent is along the ridge to the west towards the UNA-MUSO pass (between the AYILAMA and NUAM-KUAM peaks).
Time taken for individual sections of the route
I. "AYILAMA" alpine camp — glacier under the South Face of AYILAMA — 2 h 30 min II. Glacier — central counterfort to the boundary of gray rocks — 7 h III. From the boundary of gray rocks to the 170 m wall above the firn slope — 3 h IV. 170 m wall — 8 h V. From the top of the 170 m wall to the start of crossing the ice couloir — 3–4 h VI. From the start of crossing the couloir to the summit — 5 h.
The group assesses the route as category 5B difficulty.
Group composition: — 1. KUDINOV IGOR BORISOVICH — Master of Sports — 2. KOZLOV YURIY EVGENIEVICH — 1st class
Removed 1956 birth year, native of Kabardino-Balkar Republic
D. Kabardino-Balkar Republic A. Incorrectly indicated at the 10th place
