Ascent Passport

1. CATEGORY — High-altitude technical
2. REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range
3. PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°.
6. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO

The First RSFSR Climbing Championship

1983

First Ascent Category

Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee

• captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
• coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge.
3. Peak 5204 m, first ascent via the Eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m; average steepness — 58°.
6. Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 780 m.
7. Number of pitons driven for belaying: for creating artificial holds:

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge. 3. Traverse of peaks Dzhirain (5329 m) and 5100 m with ascent to peak Dzhirain via the South-East buttress. 4. Estimated difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m (Dzhirain), 400 m (p. 5100) section length:

• total 3500 m
• 5th category 325 m

SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR p. KAUNAS (5400 m) via western ridge

Brief geographical description of the climbing area

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Mayronis, 5155 m via the South-West ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B cat. diff., IV.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 955 m; average steepness 55°; length of sections: I — 300 m, II — 200 m, III — 100 m, IV — 80 m, V — 100 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 17; ice — none; bolt — none; for creating ITO — none.
7. Number of travel hours: 14 h.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night at an altitude of 4200 m.
9. Team coach: MS Dainius Makauskas.

South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge, Peak 5190, ascent via North-Eastern wall. Climbing Report. USSR Climbing Championship. Technical Climbing Class. GENERAL VIEW OF PEAK 5190 /SHUGNAN RIDGE/ UPPER BASTION

Ascent Passport

Class of ascent — technical. Rank of ascent — D-3. Pamir, Shugnan Range. Crystal Peak, ascent route — Peak 5190 via South Ridge. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m, length of sections of 2nd category — 360 m; 3rd–4th category — 585 m; 5th category — 415 m; 6th category — 245 m. Average steepness of the route: from the start of the route (sections R0–R19) — 58°; from the saddle (sect. R3–R19) — 70°; steepness of the South Ridge (sections R3–R18, defining part of the route) — 79°. Pitons hammered in: for rock insurance — 63, ice — 18, bolt — 6, placements — 32. For creating ITO: rock — 6, ice — 2, bolt — 4, placements — 4. Number of climbing hours — 25 h 30 min. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 3 bivouacs:

• — first — on the saddle under the S. ridge (satisfactory);
• — second — on the wall (narrow shelves for 1–2 people);
• — third — when exiting to the ridge (platform for a tent). Surname, first name, patronymic of participants and their qualification:
• — Stavnitscer A.M. Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor — leader
• — Samoded A.A. Master of Sports, instructor — participant

4.13.136

SOUTHWESTERN PAMIR NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE Peak 40 let Chelyabinskogo politekhnicheskogo instituta im. Leninskogo komsomola (5070) First ascent route, category 3B, via the N wall, ice and snow. KARPENKOV M.V., SITCHIKHIN YU.V., SMIRNOV M.G., VAKHITOV T.K. August 16, 1983 450 m, 45°, III, 220/II, 160/16, 28 rope ladders 6 hours

PETRA I RIDGE — NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR

Report

ON TRAVERSE OF PIK GERoEV MALoY ZEMLI PEAK (5462 m) — PIK SEVERCEVA (5120 m) (FIRST ASCENT)