125. Volnaya Ispaniya via the East ridge (V. Abalakov's route, cat. 4A). The path from the "Jantugan" alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the sites near the "Ryzhie" rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier is described in route 121. From the sites, proceed along the moraine and talus along the glacier, then descend onto it and ascend along its left side (closed crevasses!). Bypass the icefall from the left under the slopes of Ullukara peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). Having passed the icefall, ascend, keeping to the left side of the glacier, along its upper plateau to the saddle of the ridge connecting Ullukara peak on the left and Volnaya Ispaniya peak on the right — Kashkatash pass. From the plateau, ascend along a gently sloping snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya peak, to Kashkatash pass. From the pass, turn right and ascend 100-120 m along a steep snow-ice slope (cornice, piton belay!) onto the East ridge of Volnaya Ispaniya peak. Further, move along the snowy (cornices!), then along a simple, strongly destroyed rocky ridge. Two small gendarmes are to be overcome head-on:

• the 1st gendarme can be bypassed on the right,
• the second — on the left ("live" stones, belay!),
• descend into a small saddle after the gendarmes. From the saddle:
• along the snowy ridge (cornices!),
• then along a 70-80-meter ice-snow slope (piton belay!),

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent classification: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Peak, elevation: Pik Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Technical characteristics of the route:
   • elevation gain — 570 m;
   • average steepness — 54°;
   • wall section length — 550 m;
   • avg. steepness of wall section — 65°.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, East Face (M.L. Mishilyaev).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 200 m, average steepness 70°.
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs.

ADDRESSES:

LLC SOAB "Ullutau": 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Ph. 8-8662-77-09-87 TEAM LEADER (report-related issues): 300001, Tula, Karla Marksa St. 130, A.V. Rasskazov home ph. 8-4872 42-59-94 E-mail: tulalp@yandex.ru COACH: 360017, KBR, Nalchik, Kirova St. 12, apt. 50, Yu.I. Porokhnya home ph. 8-8662-74-08-65 Elevations marked in the report were determined visually and with the aid of the main rope. The Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent area: North Caucasus.
3. Peak, route: p. Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, V. Kizel's route.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: –580 m, route length — 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 120 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 16/4, chocks – 27/7, ice screws – 27, bolt pitons – 4/3*. Left on the route: bolt piton – 1, chock – 1.
7. Team's working hours: 18 hours and days – 2.
8. Overnight stay: sitting, on ice ledges.

Ascent Record

1. Category: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m)
4. Route: via North-Eastern edge (B. Subartovich route), Category 5B, 2.4.34
5. Elevation Gain: — 535 m Distance: — 720 m Length of Category VI sections: — 70 m Average steepness of the main route section: — 73 degrees entire route: — 62 degrees

II AS II ORT

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall 4. Proposed 4A cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Trekking hours — 6. 8. No overnight stays.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: rock climb
2. Ascent area: Kabardino-Balkaria, Baksan River basin, upper reaches of
   • Kamyk-Su River
3. Peak, route: Gnitche-Tyrnyauz, 3555.6 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 650 m
   • total route length — 1000 m
   • average steepness of the route — 50°
6. Number of placements: 4

Passport

I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ascent via the right buttress of the East wall. 4. Proposed - 5th category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 910 m, length - 1275 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 415 m. Average steepness of the main sections 54° (2900-3810 m). Including 155 m (83°) of 6th category of difficulty; 6. Pitons hammered: rock hatchet pitons ice 89/7 none 49/0 0/0