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Route Description: бастионам левой части В стены
Description of the first ascent of the route category 5B on the Eastern wall of the "Cold wall" peak (5979 m) in the Pamir Mountains, made by the team led by Nikolai Opoitsev in 1985.
Passport
I. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Havraz-Dara valley 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena" via the bastions of the left part of the East wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1619 meters. Average slope up to the ridge — 68°. Average slope up to the summit — 65°. Average slope of sections R23–R24 — 85°. R42–R48 — 85°. 6. Piton placement
| rock | bolt | chock | ice |
|---|
Route Description: I баст. С стены
Description of a combined route of 5B category of complexity to the summit, including technical characteristics and details of the route passage by a group of mountaineers in 1983.
- Climbing category: high-altitude technical.
- Climbing area: South-Eastern Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge, Khovraz-Dara valley.
- Summit: Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959) via the right bastion of the north face.
- Assumed category: 5B (first ascent).
- Route characteristics:
- combined route
- total elevation gain: 1500 m
- wall section elevation gain: 1100 m
- ridge elevation gain: 400 m
- total route length: 3770 m
Route Description: II баст. правой части С стены
Ascent to the peak "Kholodnaya стена" by the north wall, 6 cat., first ascent made in 1985 by a team led by Babito Kryachyov.
59а
1. Ascent Passport
- High-altitude technical climb
- Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
- Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
- Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
- Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
- Pitons used:
Route Description: левой части В стены
First ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B difficulty, in the Yazgulem ridge.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Altitude-technical class. 2. Yazgulemsky ridge, Khavraz-Dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, length - 1925 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 1370 m. 6B category of difficulty - 640 m, 5B category of difficulty - 730 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, section R23-R48 (5180-5780). 6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |
Route Description: центру В стены
First ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) by the Eastern wall, 6B cat. of difficulty, Yazgulemskiy ridge.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical Difficulty Category. 2. Yazgulsky Ridge, Havraz-dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, route length — 1925 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1370 m. 6 category of difficulty — 640 m, 5 category of difficulty — 750 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, sections 23–48 (5160–5780). 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of the team's ascent to the summit of Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the Eastern Wall, rated as 6B complexity category.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical. 2. Area — Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge. 3. Cold Wall peak, 5979 m, via the center of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 1329 m, length — 1778 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1083 m, average steepness of the main part of the wall — 84° (5170–5710 m), average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 70°. 6. Pitons used:
| rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 405 | 4 | 323 | 38 |
Route Description: центру 3 стены
"First ascent of the northern slope of the peak Chiringyad (5864 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the Western wall (6.5 category of difficulty) in 1989."
PASSPORT
I. Altitude-technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak 5864 (Chiringyad) via the West face 4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1864 m Distance — 2695 m Sections of 5–6 category difficulty — 110 m Average steepness of the main route section (4300–5864) — 67°
Route Description: В склону Ю гребня
First ascent via the eastern slope of Peak 4723 in the Yazgulem Range, Pamir Mountains; 2A grade snow-ice climb.
Ascent Log
- Western Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
- Peak 4723 m, via the eastern slope (first ascent)
- Proposed category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
- Route type: snow and ice.
- Route elevation gain — 170 m (by altimeter).
Route length — 260 m.
Average steepness:
- main part of the route — 50°.
- entire route — 35–40°.
Route Description: центру В стены
Report on the first ascent by the LGSDSO "Spartak" team to the 5156 m peak via the center of the eastern wall in the Yazgulem Range in 1984.
SPARTAK SPORTS SOCIETY CENTRAL COUNCIL CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1984 TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 5156 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE EAST FACE BY THE LGS SPARTAK TEAM Team Leader — ISAchenko G.I. Team Coach — ISAchenko G.I. Participants:
- A. Malinovsky
- A. Nardov
- V. Podgursky Contact Information:
Route Description: правому СВ ребру
Ascent to the peak Moskovskaya Pravda via the right north-eastern edge, difficulty category 5B, height difference 1200 m, covered in 54 hours.
Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven: