ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Altitude-technical class. 2. Yazgulemsky ridge, Khavraz-Dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, length - 1925 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 1370 m. 6B category of difficulty - 640 m, 5B category of difficulty - 730 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, section R23-R48 (5180-5780).
- Pitons used:
| Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 223 | 3 | 108 | 17 |
| 25 | 0 | 10 | 0 |
- Total climbing time: 72 hours 30 minutes, including 45 hours on the "mirror". 2 days - lower part of the wall, 5 days - "mirror", 1 day - counterfort.
- Overnights: 7 - in hammocks, 5 - on a suspended platform.
- Team leader: Popov Valery Nikolayevich, Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:
- Zhila Andrey Yuvinialevich, Master of Sports of the USSR
- Donskoy Konstantin Dmitrievich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Zuev Vladimir Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Kirillov Sergey Anfilofievich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Tokarev Alexander Alekseevich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Karataev Vladimir Alexandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Vinokurov Anatoly Filippovich, Master of Sports of the USSR
II. Start of the route:
August 1, 1985
Summit - August 8, 1985
Return - August 9, 1985
ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS. M 1:2000
| Section | Rock (total) | Chocks | Ice screws | Bolt | Category of difficulty | Section length, m | Steepness, ° |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0-R1 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 35 | 50 | ||
| R1-R2 | 10/3 | 4 | 6 | 40 | 90 | ||
| R2-R3 | 6/3 | 2 | 6 | 15 | 110 | ||
| R3-R4 | 3 | 3 | 6 | 35 | 90 | ||
| R4-R5 | 3 | 1 | 5 | 40 | 80 | ||
| R5-R6 | 8 | 3 | 5 | 40 | 75 | ||
| R6-R7 | 5 | 2 | 4 | 45 | 55 | ||
| R7-R8 | 4 | 1 | 5 | 90 | 65 | ||
| R8-R9 | 10 | 7 | 5 | 40 | 80 | ||
| R9-R10 | 5 | 2 | 4 | 20 | 50 | ||
| R10-R11 | 2 | 5 | 30 | 65 | |||
| R11-R12 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 30 | 65 | ||
| R12-R13 | 6 | 1 | 5 | 50 | 55 | ||
| R13-R14 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 45 | 75 | ||
| R14-R15 | 7 | 1 | 4 | 45 | 65 | ||
| 9 hours | 80/6 | 35 | |||||
| R15-R16 | 2 | 1 | 4 | 20 | 60 | ||
| R16-R17 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 25 | 60 | ||
| R17-R18 | 5 | 1 | 5 | 30 | 75 | ||
| R18-R19 | 3 | 5 | 15 | 75 | |||
| R19-R20 | 2 | 4 | 15 | 30 | |||
| R20-R21 | 4 | 2 | 4 | 60 | 85 | ||
| R21-R22 | 5 | 8 | 5 | 80 | 70 | ||
| R22-R23 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 30 | 40 | ||
| R23-R24 | 5 | 2 | 5 | 25 | 75 | ||
| 930 hours | 28 rock | 18 chocks | |||||
| R24-R25 | 4 | 5 | 30 | 75 | |||
| R25-R26 | 3 | 4 | 30 | 50 | |||
| R26-R27 | 4 | 3 | 5 | 35 | 75 | ||
| R27-R28 | 2 | 4 | 15 | 20 | |||
| R28-R29 | 5 | 2 | 6 | 40 | 80 | ||
| R29-R30 | 4 | 2 | 6 | 40 | 75 | ||
| R30-R31 | 5 | 2 | 6 | 30 | 85 | ||
| R31-R32 | 2 | 4 | 15 | 70 | |||
| 830 hours | 29 rock | 9 chocks | |||||
| R32-R33 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 60 | 80 | ||
| R33-R34 | 4 | 4 | 6 | 30 | 85 | ||
| R34-R35 | 5 | 3 | 6 | 30 | 90 | ||
| 10 hours | 17 rock | 14 chocks | |||||
| R35-R36 | 5/2 | 1 | 6 | 10 | 110 | ||
| R36-R37 | 5 | 2 | 6 | 20 | 95 | ||
| R37-R38 | 5/3 | 6/3 | 6 | 20 | 100 | ||
| R38-R39 | 8 | 5 | 1 | 6 | 50 | 90 | |
| R39-R40 | 10/8 | 2/2 | 6 | 20 | 110 | ||
| R40-R41 | 7 | 2 | 6 | 40 | 85 | ||
| R41-R42 | 4 | 1 | 6 | 15 | 95 | ||
| R42-R43 | 7/3 | 2/2 | 1 | 6 | 15 | 90 | |
| R43-R44 | 8 | 1 | 6 | 40 | 90 | ||
| 10 hours | 44/12 | 13/4 | |||||
| R44-R45 | 7/1 | 5 | 1 | 6 | 30 | 90 | |
| R45-R46 | 3 | 6 | 10 | 80 | |||
| R46-R47 | 8 | 5/3 | 6 | 15 | 110 | ||
| R47-R48 | 8 | 5 | 5 | 80 | 80 | ||
| R48-R49 | 3 | 5 | 10 | 70 | |||
| R49-R50 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 25 | 70 | ||
| R50-R51 | 4/1 | 3 | 6 | 30 | 85 | ||
| R51-R52 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 20 | 70 | ||
| R52-R53 | 2 | 4 | 5 | 25 | 80 | ||
| R53-R54 | 3 | 6 | 5 | 100 | |||
| 830 hours | |||||||
| R54-R55 | 6 | 5 | 110 | 45 | |||
| R55-R56 | 2 | 4 | 40 | 10 |
Photo 14 August 6, 1985
Photo 13
Photo 12
Photo 10 (11) August 5, 1985
Photo 10 (11) August 4, 1985
Description of the route by sections
Section R0-R1: Very destroyed rock wall. In the middle part, a cornice is traversed using artificial aids.
Sections R2-R4: Alternating rock walls, internal corners, and ledges, traversed by free climbing (many loose stones).
Sections R4-R5: Approach under a large "mushroom" on the counterfort, rocks of medium difficulty, very loose.
Sections R6-R9: Descent into a couloir and ascent up a rock wall, then along a ridge to the beginning of the "mirror".
Sections R9-R28: Alternating steep rock walls and internal corners, traversed by free climbing.
Sections R28-R31: Movement along monolithic steep rocks. Choice of holds is limited.
Sections R31-R36: Vertical walls alternate with cornices. Belay using large chocks, occasionally using ladders.
Sections R36-R38: Monolithic, vertical internal corner, in several places overhanging, belay also using hexes and large stoppers.
Sections R38-R39: Internal corner closed by a two-meter cornice. Artificial aids. The cornice is bypassed using a pendulum.
Sections R39-R40: Movement along loose, in places overhanging rocks to the right. Difficult to organize reliable belay.
Sections R40-R41: Overhanging internal corner, leading to an overhanging wall.
Sections R41-R42: Movement by traverse along overhanging loose rocks. Artificial aids. The entire set of universal pitons, as well as chocks and friends, is used.
Sections R42-R43: Rock wall with a small number of holds. Traversed by free climbing.
Section R44-R45: Monolithic rock wall, complicated in the middle part by a cornice. Traversed by free climbing.
Section R45-R46: Movement to the left under the cornice. Snow is possible in the cracks.
Section R46-R47: Cornice. Movement from left to right using artificial aids.
Section R47-R49: Rock walls with a large number of holds. Free climbing.
Sections R49-R50: Snow and ice slope, leading to a ridge.
Sections R50-R51: Rock pitch. Overhanging in the middle part.
Sections R51-R52: Ice "mushroom". Belay using ice screws.
Sections R52-R53: Rock pitch. Many loose stones.
Sections R53-R54: Snow and ice cornice. Broken through by an oblique "trench".
Sections R54-R56: Snow and ice counterfort. Ice walls alternate with ledges and sharp ridges. Ice screws, ice plugs.
Belay using ice screws.
2000
Photo 16. Profile of the wall on the left. Fragment. Sections R28-R39. Taken from the Kovtun route. August 5, 1982, 17:30, F=40 mm, S=300 m, H=5500 m.
Photo 7. Beginning of section R3-R4.
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