ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent classification: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Peak, elevation: Pik Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Technical characteristics of the route:
   • elevation gain — 570 m;
   • average steepness — 54°;
   • wall section length — 550 m;
   • avg. steepness of wall section — 65°.

Introduction

Peak Volnaya Ispaniya is located in the central part of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks Bzhedukh and Ullu-Kara, and is very popular among both Soviet and foreign mountaineers. The most interesting and challenging routes, climbed in the right part of the eastern wall (Subbotovich, Myshlyaev), have repeatedly received awards and have rightfully earned recognition as classics. The first ascent of the left part of the eastern wall was made in 1978 by a team from the Bauman Moscow State Technical University and received an award. Since the route was only classified at the end of 1979, it did not gain much popularity and was repeated only in June 1980, although its technical difficulty and logic (it follows a nearly direct line) are no less than those of previously climbed routes on this wall. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Protocol No. 20

Ascent

Debriefing of the group of instructors from the "Shkhielda" alpine camp led by Parshin V.S. on peak Volnaya Ispaniya via route 5B cat. sl. (Kolomyttsev's route on the left part of the eastern wall) on June 16, 1980. Attendees:

• Release supervisor Shepalova G.N.
• Head of the rescue camp Barulin B.

пик Вуллея, 3960 м, via 3rd ridge, cat. diff. 1B, route by L. Nadezhdin, 35 The path from the Shkhelda AU SB (Alplager) follows the trail leading to the Shkhelda glacier and further along the left edge of the glacier to the Ak-Su glacier. At the confluence with the Shkhelda glacier, turn left from the glacier edge to the middle of the Shkhelda glacier and ascend it to the slopes of Peak Vulley. Approaching the slopes, turn to the right bank of the glacier, where a rocky outcrop is located near the turn of the Shkhelda glacier opposite Peak Durovsky and the ascent to the Ushba plateau, offering a good camping spot (Shkhelda bivouac). There is water available at the bivouac site. It is possible to set up a bivouac for 8-10 tents. The travel time is 6 hours from the Shkhelda AU SB. From the bivouac, the path goes along the scree slopes located to the left of the bivouac. Movement should be done with great caution (especially in a large group) as rockfall is possible from the slopes of Peak Vulley. After the scree, a steep snow slope (35-40°) begins, leading to the saddle between the subpeak and the main peak. The ascent is hazardous due to the steepness of the slopes and requires great caution, especially during mass ascents; when moving along the snow slope, it is necessary to stay on the left side (in the direction of travel) as the right side has a steep slope with snow cornices. Further ascent follows the western ridge to the summit (about 1 hour 40 minutes). Movement along the snowy ridge is not difficult, but caution is still necessary. The ridge features rocky sections and minor obstacles (about 20-25 meters). The ascent from the bivouac to the summit takes around 7 hours. Descent takes 3-4 hours.

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Vulleya peak, 3960 m, via the South Edge, East Counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, average steepness — 40°, length of sections: II — 340 m, III — 530 m, IV — 280 m, V — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for insurance: rock — 17, ice — 0, bolt — 0; for creating RTO — 1.
7. Number of travel hours — 10.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 0.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Elagin Vasily Igorevich, 1st sports category; Kurkin Nikolay Sergeevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach — Golovin A.A., Master of Sports.

145. Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

336. Gvergishi­sher via North Ridge (rocky route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32). From the village of Nakra, follow the trail up the left slope of the gorge. Then turn left and ascend along the stream to the left-bank moraine of the Gvergishi­sher Glacier. From the moraine, move up the glacier to the left. From the upper left corner of the glacier, ascend easy, heavily fragmented rocks of the couloir, then 150–160 m of straightforward steep rocks (belaying required) up to the North Ridge of Gvergishi­sher. Here, turn left and follow easy, straightforward rocks of the wide North Ridge; then ascend a 20–25-meter straightforward rock pitch to the summit of Gvergishi­sher. 2.5–3 hours from the moraine.

II AS II ORT

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall 4. Proposed 4A cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Trekking hours — 6. 8. No overnight stays.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: rock climb
2. Ascent area: Kabardino-Balkaria, Baksan River basin, upper reaches of
   • Kamyk-Su River
3. Peak, route: Gnitche-Tyrnyauz, 3555.6 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 650 m
   • total route length — 1000 m
   • average steepness of the route — 50°
6. Number of placements: 4

CAUCASUS CHAMPIONSHIP 1986

Rock Climbing Class

Via the right buttress of the East wall

First Ascent

Category 5B difficulty (approximate)

USAB "Baksan" Team

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO Central Council of the Sports Society "Avangard" Kiev — 1962 Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.

Introduction

Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.