XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship Ice and Snow Climbing Category

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi East 4918 m via the center of the North face (route by V. Grishchenko, 1982), category 5B, third ascent by the Ukrainian SSR team Team Captain /M. M. Gorbenko/ Senior Coach /V. S. Sviridenko/ Tactical Actions of the Team. I. Deviations from the Tactical Plan and Reasons for Deviations:

• On the first day, there were no deviations from the tactical plan;
• On the second day, there was a later arrival at the pre-summit ridge, reason: complex snow conditions in the upper part of the route;

Sella Pass

Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

Russian Championship 2024 (altitude-technical class)

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort (V. Makarova, 1986) 5B Combined team of St. Petersburg:

• Nikita V. Donkov — 1st sports category
• Artur A. Matinyan — Master of Sports
• Konstantin A. Orlov — Candidate Master of Sports

Table of Contents

I. Ascent Passport — 3

Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers

XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985

Snow and Ice Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II.

Team's Tactical Actions

A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

Ascent Record

1. Category — snow and ice climb
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi valley
3. Shkhara Main via the ice board on the North face
4. Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1800 m, length — 2790 m, length of sections with IV–VI category difficulty — 888 m, including about 130 m of VI category difficulty. Average steepness of main sections — 44°
6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 197, rock pitons — 4
7. Climbing hours for ascent — 24, days — 1.5
8. All overnight stays on snow platforms

Krugozor Mordy Peak — 3476 m

Ascent via the northern ridge — 2A (Description as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp:

• along the left bank of the Uzunkol River
• cross to the right bank and down it for 350 m to a wide grassy couloir (visible from the camp)
• up the couloir, to the right of the stream, to the confluence with the left wide couloir
• exit into the Kr. Mordy peak cirque On the green terraces — a bivouac. From the camp — 2 hours.

Report

on the passage of Krugozor-Myrdy, 2A cat. sl. of the Popov V.I. team

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus (from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass).
3. B. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1000 m, length — 1355 m. The average steepness of the route is 75° (see sheet 3, front side). Length of sections: 150 m — category 6, 330 m — category 5, 400 m — category 4, 210 m — category 3, 250 m — category 1.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | For belay | For creating artificial anchors | | :------------ | :------------- | :------------------------------ |

Pyramid

Ascent to the summit of Pyramid via the south-east ridge from Marda valley - 2A cat. From Uzunkol alpine camp along the trail on the right bank of the Myrdy river to the right moraine of the Myrza glacier. Along the trail, through the "ram's foreheads" and further - along the grassy slopes to "Myrdy bivouac". 3.5–4 hours from the camp. From the bivouac into a narrow steep couloir leading to the snow plateau of the Kara-Bashi and Pyramid peaks. From dropping the "ram's foreheads" on the edge, start-right-up along the snow and the beginning of a wide scree-filled couloir, going up in steps to the SE ridge. Along the couloir (in a rope team! Rocks!) exit to the ridge. From here, left along the destroyed rocks of the wide ridge (≈ 250 m) and the first gendarme (severely destroyed rocks). Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledges and further along the inner corner (15 m, piton!) with an exit to the ridge behind the gendarme. Along the rocks, approach and yellow 7 m wall, behind which along the ledges enter a 10 m chimney (piton!). The gendarme at the confluence of the SE and southern ridges is bypassed on the right along the ledges (belay). www.alpfederation.ru