Krugozor Mordy Peak — 3476 m

Ascent via the northern ridge — 2A (Description as you move towards the summit)

From the "Uzunkol" camp:

• along the left bank of the Uzunkol River
• cross to the right bank and down it for 350 m to a wide grassy couloir (visible from the camp)
• up the couloir, to the right of the stream, to the confluence with the left wide couloir
• exit into the Kr. Mordy peak cirque

On the green terraces — a bivouac. From the camp — 2 hours.

From the bivouac, ascend up the grassy slopes and scree with isolated rock outcrops to the col between Kr. Mordy and Trezubets peaks.

From the col, move left along the ridge, bypassing a gendarme to the right (rope work!) and all small gendarmes to the left — to a prominent reddish-colored gendarme. Before the gendarme — a small col. Initially, descend a 5-meter wall (Protection!), then from the col, left into a couloir, bypassing the gendarme on the left. (Protection! Loose rocks!). Then, ascend up a ledge to the right, to scree, and exit onto the ridge. From here, ascend along the ridge (with intermittent protection) to the pre-summit ridge. The first small ascent is bypassed via slabs on the left (Protection!) and exit to the summit via simple rocks, partly on snow.

From the bivouac to the summit — 6 hours.

Descend from the summit along the eastern ridge, initially via broken rocks, then down gentle snowy slopes into the cirque — to the bivouac site.

From the summit to the bivouac — 2 hours.

Number of participants in the group — 2 training sections. Departure time from the bivouac — 5–6 am.

Equipment for a group of 4:

• Rope 2 × 30 m
• Consumable cordelette — 2 m
• Rock pitons — 2–3 pcs.
• Hammers — 2 pcs.
• Carabiners — 6–7 pcs.

The complete traverse takes 7–8 hours. Number of pitons used — 4 pcs.

Group leader — sports master Agranovsky G.L., participants — climbers III and II ranks.

Note: Time on the route can be shifted by up to 6 hours. Number of pitons can be reduced to 2–3 pcs. www.alpfederation.ru↗