Pyramid

Ascent to the summit of Pyramid via the south-east ridge from Marda valley - 2A cat.

From Uzunkol alpine camp along the trail on the right bank of the Myrdy river to the right moraine of the Myrza glacier. Along the trail, through the "ram's foreheads" and further - along the grassy slopes to "Myrdy bivouac". 3.5–4 hours from the camp.

From the bivouac into a narrow steep couloir leading to the snow plateau of the Kara-Bashi and Pyramid peaks.

From dropping the "ram's foreheads" on the edge, start-right-up along the snow and the beginning of a wide scree-filled couloir, going up in steps to the SE ridge.

Along the couloir (in a rope team! Rocks!) exit to the ridge. From here, left along the destroyed rocks of the wide ridge (≈ 250 m) and the first gendarme (severely destroyed rocks). Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledges and further along the inner corner (15 m, piton!) with an exit to the ridge behind the gendarme.

Along the rocks, approach and yellow 7 m wall, behind which along the ledges enter a 10 m chimney (piton!).

The gendarme at the confluence of the SE and southern ridges is bypassed on the right along the ledges (belay). www.alpfederation.ru↗

The forepeak is a slab

Further - along the destroyed rocks, bypassing all gendarmes and the forepeak on the left. From the forepeak (landmark - flag-plaque) descend into the trough (rocks the color of sulfur) and climb to the summit via a short wall.

Descent from the summit along a horizontal slab. From here, left-down traverse of a large scree slope and further along the snowpatch and the ridge, bypassing the lake, and onto the plateau.

Along the plateau, ascend to the Sele-Tyube pass and return to the bivouac through it.

The ascent from bivouac to bivouac takes 6–7 hours.

Recommended for groups of no more than 15–20 people.

Leader - P. Zakharov

The ascent was made by instructors from Uzunkol sports camp Zakharov P.A. and Klimashin V.V. in 1964.