Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation of Kharkiv Region

Report

On the ascent of the Kharkiv region team to the summit of Kara-Kaya Western.

Via the Central buttress of the Southwest wall. Presumably 5B category of difficulty. First ascent. Zakalodnii A. V. — team leader Poltavets E. I. Kotlyar R. S. Eremeev A. A. Timko E. N.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship

2014 Description of the ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central buttress of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty (E. Poltavets, 2010) ROUTE COMPLETED BY TEAM FASIL Team captain - Nikitin Andrey Borisovich

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, point 2.5.226
2. Name of the summit: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central buttress of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A
4. Route type: rock climbing

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2012

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KARA-KAYA (3646 m) VIA THE CENTRAL SPUR OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL, 6A cat. dif., (E. Poltavets, 2010) The route was completed by the team of the "Polytechnic" Alpine Club

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, paragraph 2.5.226 (Minutes of the Classification Committee meeting No. 6 dated December 28, 2010)
2. Peak name: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central spur of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Cat. dif.: 6A
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 700 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1151 m. Section length: 5 cat. dif. — 245 m, 6 cat. dif. — 491 m.

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

Ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central counterfort of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty, (E. Poltavets, 2010) Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Participants:

• Kananykhin I.V.
• Solovey A.I.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

| 1.1 | Leader's full name, sports rank | Kananykhin Igor Vladimirovich, CMS |

St. Petersburg Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kara-Kaya peak (3646 m) Route via the Central counterfort of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty, (E. Poltavets, 2010) St. Petersburg 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, item 2.5.226 (Minutes of the Classification Commission meeting No. 6 dated December 28, 2010)
2. Name of the peak: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central counterfort of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2024. High-Technical Class

Report on the Ascent of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A cat. compl. (E. Poltavets) by the Voronezh Team from September 11 to 14, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team Leader	Lomara A. Maksimova, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Alexey Yu. Gagarinov, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Mikhail V. T. Torshin
1.3	Organization	Voronezh Regional Public Organization "Sports Federation of Alpine Climbing"
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Moscow Climbing Championship 2024

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Karakaya via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A category of difficulty, by the team from Moscow from October 9 to October 13, 2024.

Semenov M. A. — Master of Sports Vvedenskaya V. V. — 1st sports category Spichka A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Alpine Club — "Mountain Madness"

Koshtan-Tau (5145 m), North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the "3900" campsite, move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Kundryum-Mijirgi Glacier. The fourth stage of the icefall is climbed:

• near the rocks of the West Ridge of Kundryum-Mijirgi Peak (piton use required!)
• or through the center (crevasses!) of the icefall. Then, move left along the route with a slight ascent to reach the slopes of Ptitsa Peak. It is convenient to camp here (1.5–2 hours from the "3900" campsite). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of Yuzhnaya Ptitsa Peak, left of a vaguely defined couloir. From here:
• ascend slabs (60 m)
• ascend an inclined ledge up to the right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then, make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir, which after 40 m will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall rocks, on rocks and icy-snowy sections (piton use required!), ascend (120–140 m) to a rocky niche.

Dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the Communist Party of Ukraine

Report on the Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

Kiev Regional Council DSO "Avangard"

Table 1

Composition of the Assault Group

2. Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

On August 2, the group led by Master of Sports of the USSR Fomenko Ya. A. returned from the northern ridge of Koshtan-Tau, while another group led by Master of Sports Ovcharov V. V., having made a supply drop of equipment and food under the wall of Koshtan-Tau, returned to base camp No. 4. Ovcharov's group did not process the wall due to lack of visibility; the wall was shrouded in fog. On August 3, Fomenko Ya. A. and Kashin I. A. reconnoitered the lower part of the wall.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: