traverse of peaks 5150 m and 5100 m from east to west. Peaks 5150 and 5100 m are located in the main ridge of the western part of the Zavlaisky ridge and close the Kок-Kyik gorge. The traverse is made from east to west. 1st day: approaches from the intermediate base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition (3800 m), located in the upper reaches of the X Kок-Kyik gorge near the lake, under the beginning of the route. Overnight on the moraine, height 4200 m. 2nd day: exit at 6:00 am through a stream flowing from under the glacier, which descends from the slopes of peaks 5600 m (loss of height up to 100 m), then ascent to the glacier and firn slope into the gap between peaks 5600 and 5150 m. Route features:

• Traverse in good weather conditions takes 9 hours.
• In bad weather, there are places for a tent practically along the entire route.
• The glacier is crossed in a rope team, as there are closed crevices.
• The firn slope has a steepness of 35 to 50°.
• From the foot to the upper part of the pass requires about 3 hours.

Report

On the first ascent of the route to the summit UNIVERSITET ITMO via the North-Eastern ridge — 3A category of complexity (presumably). By the team of climbers: Inozemtsev, Sokhatsky, Kurzin. For the period June 20, 2019.

After the couloir, traversing left upwards the scree slopes, we come to a destroyed counterfort of yellowish color. On the left (in the direction of travel) side of this counterfort, on the border of rocks and snow, we move straight up to the exit to the main ridge, leading to the summit. The ridge is snow-rocky, heavily destroyed, in some places under the snow, there is ice. The path along the ridge is unambiguous and leads straight to the summit "feathers". On the ridge, there are several small gendarmes, overcome head-on, and two are bypassed on the left. When bypassing gendarmes, the insurance is hook-type. Under the snow, ice is possible. There are several large cornices on the ridge, hanging over the right (in the direction of travel) slopes of the ridge.

Ча­сов processed this section of the path (7 ropes). The detour was made with thorough piton protection and using sport rappel (1 rope, an ice axe with a loop was left). Further, handrails were hung (2 ropes) traversing the wall to the snow-ice mulda. After a short horizontal section of the ridge, the first drop was followed by:

• another drop, one rope,
• then a mulda. Further, again, there was a horizontal section with a cornice and a very steep slope. Having ascended the wall to the mulda, the "two" cut steps along the ridge below the line of cornice break-off for three to four ropes and returned back to the remaining group at 18:00. The remaining "three" were busy with:

1. Climbing category - technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge - East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Angarsk Vostochny, 2691 m, via the left buttress of the 0-3 wall.
4. Proposed category complexity - 3B.
5. Height difference - 700 m, average steepness - 47°.
6. Number of pitons driven - 15 rock pitons.
7. Number of climbing hours - 14 hours.
8. Number of overnight stays - none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: 9.1. Donskoy Konstantin Dmitrievich, 1st sports category - leader.

Description of the Traverse Climb of the South and Central Towers of "Trehglavaya" via Route 1B Category of Difficulty

The "Trehglavaya" peak closes the Right Kyngarga cirque from the south with its "North Tower". It is the most beautiful peak in the area. The height of the "South Tower" is 2511 meters above sea level, while the "Central" and "North" towers are slightly higher.

1. "Druzhba" campsite,
2. "Arshan" campsite,
3. "Bronenosets" campsite,
4. "Piramida" campsite,
5. "Obzorny" campsite,
6. "Bratchanka" campsite,
7. "9 Maya" campsite,

6.2 Western Sayan Koshurnikova 2300 m, 1B category, From the ridge Zhigalov A.V. March 17, 2013

Climbing Passport

1. Type of climb — combined
2. Region — Western Sayan, Borus ridge
3. Peak Koshurnikova, 2300 m, From the ridge
4. Proposed — 1B first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 950 m
• total length 1700 m
• length of sections: 2nd category complexity — 100 m

The wall with cornices, the key section R2–R3, view from above The section R3–R4, view from above □ □ The summit of Кошурникова at 16:10, October 17, 2013

Akkum (4098 m)

Traverse from the northeast to the southwest — category 2A (fig. 1)

The Akkum peak, located in the cirque of the Levyy Kasckelen glacier, is a dome-shaped elevation with groups of rocks in a large snowy ridge that approaches it from the northeast. The northern slopes of the ridge are the main area of glacier nourishment. Fig. 1. The ascent to the summit begins along a branch from the main ridge, as if cutting into the Levyy Kasckelei glacier. From the glacier, ascend the snowy slope of medium steepness along the branch to its junction with the main ridge. The junction is crowned with a small dome covered with small scree. From the dome, continue moving along the snowy-ice ridge leading to the summit. Along the entire length of the ridge, huge snow cornices hang over the southern side. Therefore, it is necessary to move along it with careful insurance and a constant deviation to the right side. In some places, on steep sections, there are ice outcrops, requiring the cutting of steps. Two gendarmes are encountered. The first one is bypassed from the north along a steep icy slope, which is covered with snow at the beginning of the season. If there is ice, insurance is provided through ice screws. The slope leads to rocks, where the bypass is made. After the gendarme, it is advisable to make a traverse of the slope to a small saddle, behind which the second gendarme rises, easily bypassed from the south. Further:

• several steep ascents, where cutting steps is required again. Before the summit, it is necessary to take a left turn, exit onto a narrow snowy ridge, and along it — to the summit.

Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay). The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route. The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.