Часов processed this section of the path (7 ropes). The detour was made with thorough piton protection and using sport rappel (1 rope, an ice axe with a loop was left). Further, handrails were hung (2 ropes) traversing the wall to the snow-ice mulda.
After a short horizontal section of the ridge, the first drop was followed by:
- another drop, one rope,
- then a mulda.
Further, again, there was a horizontal section with a cornice and a very steep slope. Having ascended the wall to the mulda, the "two" cut steps along the ridge below the line of cornice break-off for three to four ropes and returned back to the remaining group at 18:00. The remaining "three" were busy with:
- observation,
- preparation of the bivouac.
There were no convenient sites; the campsite was cut out in the ice and fixed on pitons.
4th day
The group started the route at 6:00. Using frozen steps and a rappel rope, the group bypassed the dangerous section.
When passing the next section (a very sharp ridge), they used handrails — 2 ropes tensioned by the first "two".
The further path went along huge ice cornices hanging to the south. On the ridge, there were narrow crevices that were used for protection through an ice axe.
To the south, the ridge breaks off with steep rocky walls and couloirs with formed ice. The ridge ends with large cornices (visible from below as a horizontal section). Bypassing the cornices is possible by traversing from the right, below the break-off line, with alternating protection.
At the confluence of the ridges, we come out onto a snowy plateau (from the bivouac to the snowy plateau — 6 hours). Here, the group left their backpacks and, after a short rest, began the ascent along the summit ridge at 12:00. The ascent to the summit ridge goes along a snowy