Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Donguzorun via M. Khergiani route on the North face.
4. 5B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain: 1618 m, length 1900 m. Length of sections:

• 5th cat. diff. 1205 m.
• 6th cat. diff. 70 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°

Koy Avgan Bashi

in the center of the North slope, category 3B, first ascent AGLK "Dzhailyk" Virchenko Yu.P. — CMS Skornyakov A.N. — CMS Senior coach — Popov V.P.

Route Description

The route goes along the snow-ice slope, lying between rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit. Then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction to the summit Koy-Avgan. The beginning of the route is near the right side of the bergschrund crossing the base of the North slope. After overcoming the bergschrund, move straight up the snow-ice slope towards the saddle between two rocky outcrops. Along the left side of the lower rocky outcrop. The average steepness is 30°. The length of this section is 800 m. From the saddle between the outcrops, move straight up along the right side of the upper rocky outcrop towards the pre-summit. In this area, the slope is usually pure ice with a steepness of 40°–45°. The length of this section is 400 m. Belay through ice screws.

4. Proposed difficulty category 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, average steepness 35°, section lengths: I — 300 m, II — 250 m, III — 300 m, IV — — m, V — — m, VI — — m. 6. Pitons hammered in: for belay, for creating I.T.O.: — rock: 0 — ice: 34 — bolt: 0

318. Leyrag via the North Face (combined route, L. Kensitsky, category 3B difficulty, fig. 32, 43). From the moraine (point 316) follow the Leyrag Glacier to the foot of the central part of Leyrag's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend an osypnoy (scree) couloir, then ascend easy snow-covered rocks of a ridge below the wall of the Lower Rock Belt. Climb a 15–20-meter wall of moderate difficulty (pitons) up to a slanting snowy terrace. Traverse the terrace (loose stones) rightwards to a rocky ridge. From it, climb up and right along the edge of ice and rocks.

Description of the Pik I Maya 4B cat. sl. route

From the base of the central couloir of Pik I Maya to the right side 200–230 m to the right side of the rocky outcrop. In its center — an exit to the ridge on its summit. Control cairn. From it:

• 70 m along the ice couloir on the left side
• 30 m along the slabs
• 100 m along the ice crust under the wall of the II couloir to the inner corner
• Traverse left 25 m
• 4th wall of the couloir upwards to the left along the rocks of medium difficulty under the inner corner of the 4th gendarme, S/3 of the ridge
• 20 m along the corner, a slab is hanging above
• Ascent to the shoulder

2. Description

Ascending the north-west slope Traversing the Sakashil-Bashi massif from East to West Leave the bivouac as early as possible (at 3–4 am). From the "3430" bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier, ascend the glacier, avoiding crevasses on the right, to a steep snow-ice slope leading to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Continue ascending the snowy slope towards a rocky outcrop under the saddle. Reach the rocky island and traverse left for 10–15 m along a 45–50° ice slope, cutting steps and using ice axe insurance via an ice screw, and reach inclined slabs. Ascend the inclined slabs first left-upwards (using piton insurance, beware of loose rocks!) — 15–20 m, and then right-upwards to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Elevation — 3700 m, 1.5–2 hours from the bivouac. From the saddle, ascend a 6–7 m wall, and then right along a ledge to a rocky ridge leading to the start of the ice-snow ridge of the Sakashil-Bashi massif summit. 1 hour from the saddle. At the boundary of rocks, there's a control cairn. Ascend the ice-snow slope leading to the "Glavnaya" (Main) summit via areas of firn and snow using crampons, with insurance via an ice axe; the slope steepness is 50–60°. Ascend initially towards a snowy depression, and then traverse the edge of the depression from right to left, directly to the summit ridge. The length of the ice-snow slope is 10–12 rope lengths; the steepest section of the slope, 25–30 m long (1 rope length), is overcome using front-point cramponing with careful insurance. Continue along the snowy ridge to the "Glavnaya" summit.

Ascent Log

1. Class — rock.
2. Elbrus region, Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Trapezia (3740 m), via NW edge from the North Djan-kuat glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 2A, first ascent.
5. Route character: snow-ice, height difference from the glacier 300 m, steepness of the upper part 45°, length 180 m.
6. Belay: when approaching the upper bergschrund — via ice axe, on the slope via ice screws, 17 pieces driven in total.
7. Number of travel hours from the bivouac at "Green Hotel" 6–7 hours, descent from the summit — 2.5–3 hours.
8. Group is training:

Gennady Starikov, Moscow (Author's photo) Trapecija 2A, Ascent Passport

1. Region — Caucasus, valley — Adylsu. (table — 2008, p. 42, item 171a) Peak name — Trapecija (3697), NW edge.
2. 2A category of difficulty (first ascent)
3. Nature of the route — snow-ice.
4. Height difference from the glacier — 300 m Length of ice sections of 3rd category of difficulty — 180 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.

в. ULLU-KARA, 4302 m, 3rd cat. diff., complicated category, N. Popov's route, '34 From the "Djantugan" base camp, follow a good trail along the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the Kashkatash glacier. After passing the overnight spot near the "Red Rocks", descend to the glacier and traverse its gently sloping middle section, sticking to its left (in traverse direction) side. At the beginning of summer, there are many hidden crevasses here. Approaching the upper icefall of Kashkatash (opposite the hanging glacier on the slope of Pik Germogenov), overcome its left (in traverse direction) side under the slope of Ullu-Kara. This section is hazardous due to possible rock and ice fall from the ridge wall above. By the end of summer, traversing the icefall becomes more difficult due to numerous crevasses. After reaching the snow plateau above the icefall, traverse it to the right and ascend a low-angle slope, sticking to its right (in traverse direction) side, to reach the Kashka-Tash pass. From Djantugan, it takes 5-7 hours; descent from the pass takes 2-4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via a steep, not clearly defined ridge with fragile rocks. After passing two bivouac sites:

• the first one is 30 minutes walk from the pass,
• the second one is another 30 minutes further, start ascending the main ridge. The path goes along a rocky ridge to the right (in traverse direction) of a couloir, then along the left (in traverse direction) side of a wide snow slope to a small talus, from there - through a narrowing couloir and a chimney. The upper part of the ascent to the main ridge is the key section of the route and is done with rope protection.