Gennady Starikov, Moscow (Author's photo) Trapecija 2A, Ascent Passport

1. Region — Caucasus, valley — Adylsu. (table — 2008, p. 42, item 171a) Peak name — Trapecija (3697), NW edge.

2. 2A category of difficulty (first ascent)

3. Nature of the route — snow-ice.

4. Height difference from the glacier — 300 m Length of ice sections of 3rd category of difficulty — 180 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.

5. view from the valley — Adylsu

6. view from the summit VIA-tau

7. Total ice pitons used on the route — 17 pcs. When approaching the ice ascent, running belay via ice axe.

8. Total hours from the bivouac at Zelenaia Gostinitsa to the summit — 7 hours, steep descent to the saddle of v. Chotchat, then to the glacier under the climbed route, avoiding 1-2 bergschrunds (belay!). See five photos.

9. Group was training: leader — Starikov G.A. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor 1st category, coach, participants: Aksenov N.V., Bulatova M., Kostin V.S., Lozovoi S.M., Fomin A.G. (all — 3rd sports category).

10. view from the glacier

11. route profile

12. first rope out of four and a half

13. Coach: Laptev A.L. — Candidate Master of Sports.

14. Departure and return: August 16, 1981.

15. Organization — alplager "Dzhantugan".

Recommendations

• Crampons for all
• Ice screws — 8-10 pcs.
• Ice axes — 2 pcs.

Note

The route itself is logical — 180 m of ice (total 4.5 ropes), goes straight up from the last bergschrund, it is not allowed to exit to the destroyed rocky ridge to the right (see Accident Report 1991 — death of 4 people from alplager "Adylsu").