Irkutsk

Regional Alpine Federation

Protocol №–304 from 6.71 г. To first ascenders.

Description

Ascent to v. Dinosaur (Tunkin Alps). via the eastern ridge (EASTERN SAYAN)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ROCK.
2. Ascent area — EASTERN SAYAN, TUNKINSKIE GOLTSY ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. DINOSAUR, 2716 m, SOUTH BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN RIDGE.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Height difference — 416 m.
6. Average steepness of the buttress — 55°.
7. Length of sections — 4th diff. cat. – 28 m, 5th diff. cat. – 150 m.
8. Pitons driven — rock: 42, ice: for ITO.
9. Number of travel hours — 11 h.

Brief geographic overview of the area, sporting characteristics

The Dомашняя peak is located in the south-eastern spur of the Tunkinsky ridge of the Eastern Sayan, which is a watershed between the Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. Its height is 2352 m above sea level. In the same spur, there are two unnamed peaks, 2693 m and 2678 m, and the Dinosaur peak, 2820 m, for which there are classified routes 2B and 4A cat. sl. The Tunkinsky Goltsy are the highest part of the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3226 m, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym stream. The approach to the base camp starts from the Lesnichikha clearing, located 10 km from the Arshan resort, through the Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. The base camp is located:

• on the left orographic bank of the Zuun-Khandagai river
• 6 hours walk from the clearing
• opposite the Dомашняя peak
• at the forest boundary The forest boundary here is at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level.

Irkutsk, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table: 6.1.
2. Domashnaya peak 2350 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′32.55″ N 102°13′4.44″ E), via the East Face
3. Route difficulty category: proposed 5A category, first ascent
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 650 m Route length: 1200 m Length of sections:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Peak Druzhba 2500 m via Western ridge through Lyubov
3. Category 2A (variant of Prokopieva 2A)
4. Route type: rock. Height difference: 1600 m; average steepness: 20°; total route length: 4780 m;
5. Total pitons used: 4 left behind: 0;

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Eastern Sayan, Kyngarga gorge.
3. Druzhba peak 2500 m via the Western ridge. Route category 2B (reference point).
4. Elevation gain 300 m, length 1020 m, average slope 18°, length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 2, bolted 0, nut 0, ice 1.
6. Team's travel time — 9 hours, days — 1.7.
7. Overnights: 0.
8. Leader: Prokopyeva Galina Arkadyevna, 2nd sports category. Kirillov Sergey Anfilofievich, Master of Sports.

Ascent Certificate for Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge

cat. 2A diff. 1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­sky ridge, Chyorny Irkut valley, section 2. 2. Zarechnaya peak, 2400 m, via the West ridge. 3. Category 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type — rocky. 5. Height difference 200 m, length 400 m, average slope 30°. 6. Pitons hammered: rocky and ... 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route.

Route description to Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge, cat. 2A diff.

Zarechnaya peak is located in the westernmost part of the Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, rises above the Bely Irkut and Chyorny Irkut rivers, on the 1st (orographic) bank of Chyorny Irkut, on the opposite side of the road. Approach from the cafe along the aufeis to the confluence, along the slope — taiga and grassy, to the rocks; height difference — 5 m 0–1 60 m, 35°, 1+ Left to right along a three-tiered ledge. 1–2 12 m. Sporty descent. 2–3 150 m, 35°, 1 — along ledges, initially left, then up. 3–4 60 m, 35°, 1 — along the ridge. 4–5 50 m, 45°, 2+ Deteriorated limestone outcrops with limited contact along cracks. Crossing left upwards above the abyss, psychologically unpleasant, 3 pitons. Crucial section. Use anchor pitons. 5–6 20 m, 30°, 1+ Left of the ridge. 6–7 30 m, 2 — Traverse right along rocks through the ridge. Descent to a ledge. General view of Zarechnaya peak from the Bely Irkut valley.

Zarechnaya 2400

Zun via Ts.ktf 10-3 from 2834 m. Kirillov S.A. Vostochny Sayany 6.1. first ascent

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Vostochny Sayany, Zun-Khandagai gorge.
3. To Zun via Ts.ktf. 10-3 peak. (2834 m)
4. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity — 60 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 0
7. Team's walking hours: 11 hours and days — 1.

Ascent Passport

1. East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagay gorge, section 6.1. 69
2. The Third Needle of Khandagay peak, 2650 m, via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 230 m, length — 280 m, average steepness — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 24.
7. Team's moving hours — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Afanasiev A.E. CMS

St. Petersburg Alpine Championship 2012

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Erydag via the 3rd "well" of the 3rd wall and along the SW ridge, rocky 2696 m (A. Dubovikov's route, 1981) 5A cat. difficulty of the alpclub "Bars" team (St. Petersburg) July 13, 2012

• Leader: Vorobyev K.P.
• Participant: Khudyakov A.
• Team Coach: Semiletkin S.A. St. Petersburg 2010