Ascent Passport
- East Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagay gorge, section 6.1. 69
- The Third Needle of Khandagay peak, 2650 m, via the South Ridge.
- Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Height difference — 230 m, length — 280 m, average steepness — 55°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 24.
- Team's moving hours — 5 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group: Afanasiev A.E. CMS Bolgov Yu.M. 1st sports category.
- Coach: Belousov V.M. CMS
- Approach to the route and return — May 15, 1981.
Photograph of the Third Needle of Khandagay peak, South Ridge. For category complexity.
Needles of Khandagay. General view photo
Route Description
Ascent to the Third Needle of Khandagay
From the base camp, the approach to the third lake in the upper reaches of the Zuun-Khandagay river takes 3–3.5 hours. The entire route is clearly visible from the lake. The start of the route is located to the left of the couloir leading to the Udachny pass. The approach to the start of the route is via large scree covered with snow.
| Section | Meters | Degrees | Cat. complexity | Characteristics of the section |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0–1 | 40 | 45 | 2 | Along the center of the north ridge between the snowy couloir of the Udachny pass and the chimney leading to the ridge — 40 m, 45°, simultaneously on easy rocks. |
| 1–2 | 45 | 60–65 | 4 | Straight up the center of the ridge, rocks of medium difficulty, piton protection. Exit to a snowy shelf. Key section. |
| 2–3 | 20 | 30 | 3+ | 20 m along a gentle snow-covered ridge with cornices. |
| 3–4 | 20 | Traverse | 2+ | 20 m traverse to the right along steep snow under overhanging rocks. Piton protection. Dangerous! |
| 4–5 | 40 | 70 | 3+ | Up the right part of the ridge 40 m along inclined slabs with characteristic transverse cracks, exit to the ridge (channels, boxes, large chocks!). Difficult climbing, steepness 70°. |
| 5–6 | 120 | 55–60 | 3 | Up three rope lengths along the center of the ridge. Rocks of medium difficulty. Piton protection (14 pitons). Exit to the summit. Descent to the Udachny pass via the snowy couloir into the Zuun-Khandagay gorge. |
Photopanorama of the Needle of Khandagay peak
