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First ascent of Tsa peak (3664 m) via the South ridge, Caucasus, Bokoĭ Range, cat. 1B難度

Ascent Passport

  1. Rock class.
  2. Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsatadon River gorge.
  3. Peak 3664 m (Tsat); from Southeast via South Ridge.
  4. Proposed — Category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 400 m, approximately 2 km long. Average slope along the route is about 30°.
  6. Pitons driven:
    rockchocksice screwsbolted pitons
    2400
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Climbing route description for Marshal Tukhachevsky Peak (4020 m) via the South-Eastern Edge, graded III-B–IV-A difficulty, located in the Central Caucasus.

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m)

Via the Southeastern Ridge, Category III-B–IV-A

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m above sea level) is located in the high-mountainous Tepli group of the Lateral Ridge of the Central Caucasus. The peak is situated in the northern spur of Kolota (4168 m) between the "4010 m" peak to the south and the "4036 m" peak to the north, on the watershed of the Arkhon-Don and Tsazi-Don rivers. There is no information about ascents to the peak. A steep rocky ridge descends from the peak to the southeast, which was traversed during the first ascent by R.P. Proskuryakov's group in September 1971, made in honor of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet Guards. The path from Ordzhonikidze passes along the highway through the village of Dzuarikau and further along the Fiagdon River (Kurtatinskoye gorge) to the mouth of the Tsazi-Don River, a kilometer south of the highest village in the gorge, Kharischan. A high-clearance vehicle can drive through the village of Kharischan along the road to Arkhon Pass (Dzhimi North Pass), before which a dirt road, built by geologists, turns left into the Tsazi-Don gorge, which can save 1.5-2 hours of walking. For a kilometer, the trail winds along the right bank of the Tsazi-Don River, then crosses a bridge and continues along the left bank of the river to a dead end, past a small lake, through moraine rises - a total of 4-5 hours of walking to a convenient bivouac site in a wide hollow among the left-bank moraines near the Tsazi Glacier plateau (2900 m above sea level). Two campsites are laid out here, and a small lake is located nearby in a deep pocket between the moraines. To return to the bivouac on time, it's necessary to start the ascent no later than 4:00 AM.

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The first ascent to the summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya via the northwestern ridge from the Nakhashbita glacier, category 4A. A detailed description of the route and its passage by a Dnipropetrovsk group of climbers.

First Ascent

to the summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya via the northwest ridge from the Nakhashbita Glacier, category 4A (estimated), Dnepropetrovsk

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Area

The summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya is located in the Sugan Ridge, stretching from west to east, north of the Main Caucasian Ridge between the valleys of the rivers:

  • Cherek Balkarsky
  • Khizny-Don Studying the materials of groups that had previously visited this area (Honored Master of Sports of the USSR A.S. Zyuzina, I.M. Leonova, Master of Sports of the USSR R.U. Abduramanova), we concluded that nobody had climbed to the summit of Nakhashbita Glavnaya via the northwest ridge from the Nakhashbita Glacier. In the winter of 1964, during the preparation of the alpinist plans, it was decided to make this ascent.

2. Preparation for the Ascent

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First ascent of the route, cat. 5B, via the cornices of the Southwest wall on Tbau North-West (2980 m) in the Skalisty Range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification.
  2. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall.
  3. Proposed 5B category; first ascent.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length:
    • 5 category – 52 m.
    • 6 category – 27 m.
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First ascent description of Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m) via South-West wall, grade 5A, in the Caucasus, Kurtatinsky gorge.

Ascent log.

  1. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1
  2. Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge.
  3. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none.
  7. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2)
  8. Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent.
  9. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports
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Description of the first ascent to Pik Naumova (3602 m) from the south via a rock route of 2A category of complexity in Digoria, with a detailed description of the approaches and the route passage.

Ascent Passport

  1. Digoria, Sugansky ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
  2. p. Naumova (3602 m) – from the South.
  3. Proposed 2A category of complexity, first ascent.
  4. Route character — rocky.
  5. Route height difference – 300 m (from point R0). Total route length – 510 m. Length of sections with 4th category of complexity – 30 m. Average steepness:
    • key sections – 70°
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Description of the first ascent of category 6A route via the northern wall of Krushkol peak (4676 m) in Shimrga gorge in Caucasus.

  1. Technical category.
  2. Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge.
  3. V. Krumkol 4676 m, via the North Face.
  4. Suggested route - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1585 m. length: 1956 m. length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 399 m, out of which 6 category - 113 m. Average steepness of the rock bastion 70°.
  6. Pitons hammered in:
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Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route via the southern edge of Teegeneklibashi peak (3502 m) in the Baksan gorge of the Caucasus.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi

via the South Ridge, category 1B (approximately) AM OOO "Alpine Camps Management" "Adyl-Su 2022" December 15, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderRastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports
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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Elbrus via the North-West ridge, category 4A route, completed by the Ushba club in 2003.

Passport

  1. Combined class.
  2. Caucasus, Ullukhursuk gorge in KCR (Lateral Ridge to the north of MRR).
  3. Mount Elbrus (West) via the North-West ridge.
  4. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty, first ascent ("pp").
  5. Elevation gain: camp №1 4100 m — summit 5642 m = 1542 meters. Distance: 6550 meters. Average slope: 50–55°.
  6. Use of protection gear: 33 pieces. Use of ice screws: 20 pieces.
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Climbing route description for Tbaukhokh peak (3007 m) via the North-West face, with a complexity category of 3B-4A, featuring a detailed path analysis and recommendations.

Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
  3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity
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