Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa peak, height 2150 m, SE buttress, route character — rock climbing.
4. Estimated difficulty category 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; section lengths: 3rd diff. cat. — 140 m, 4th diff. cat. — 80 m; average steepness of the route — 45–50°.
6. Used rock protection — 5/0 (numerator — total quantity, denominator — for creating artificial anchor points).
7. Number of moving hours — 5 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.

I recommend approving the 5B route for the group. Balezin V.

Ascent Record

1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan.
2. Summit — Ptitsa via the Eastern wall. "Ekho" route.
3. Proposed — Category 5A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; main section elevation gain 300 m; average steepness of the main section 72°.

Report

of the "Voshozhdenie" climbers' sports club team (Barnaul) on the ascent to Uchiteley peak via the center of the eastern wall first ascent, estimated at 4A Participants: Ozerov I.M. Ivanov V.L. 2016

Ascent Data Sheet

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section 6.2 of the mountain route classifier.

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Ptitsa via the left part of the eastern wall and the southeast buttress, category 4A, by the team of the "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club (Barnaul) on July 29, 2020

I. Climbing Report

№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Lezhnev Anton Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the team members	Trufanov Maxim Sergeevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.3	Full name of the coach	Guselnikov Vitaly Mikhailovich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	"Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Report

On ascending to the summit of Golova Sayana via the W. wall, 3A cat. diff. by team 5 of the training center for military-sports training on June 16, 2020.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Shirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank. Shustov Anton Mikhailovich, 2nd sports rank.
1.3	Full name of the coach	Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich
1.4	Organization	5th training center for military-sports training
	2. Characteristics of the ascent object

Report

on the ascent to the summit Zvezdny, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B, cat. diff. Second passage by the team Moscow–St. Petersburg On July 7, 2021

I. Ascent Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Balagurin S.O. (CMS)

Siberian Federal District Climbing Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2018

Report

on the ascent to Zvezdny peak, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B category of complexity. First ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk on July 19, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Prokofiev D.E. (MS)

Ascent Log

1. Area – Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, p. 6.2
2. Peak – Ptitsa, 2221 m, via the chimney of the South face.
3. Claimed – 2B category of difficulty – first ascent
4. Route nature – rock climbing
5. Height difference – 160 m. Total length – 200 m. Average slope of the entire route – 51°. Average slope of the key section – 60°. Length of sections with IV category of difficulty – 70 m.
6. Equipment used on the route: Stopper – 12 pcs, Cams – 18 pcs.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "SPYASHCHIY SAYAN" VIA THE ROUTE "PO Z. STENE CHEREZ RUKI" (WESTERN WALL VIA "RUKI") OF 2B CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TEAM OF THE 5TH TRAINING CENTER FOR MILITARY-SPORTS TRAINING ON OCTOBER 10, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Shirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Kraytor Sergey Grigorievich, Candidate Master of Sports, Popov Danil Anatolievich, 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Kraytor Sergey Grigorievich
1.4	Organization	5th Training Center for Military-Sports Training
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Report

On the first ascent of the eastern ridge of Peak Pamyati Zhertv Tetnulda (5746 m) (Moscow Pravda) in the southwestern Pamir, approximately 4B–6 category of difficulty, made by a group of participants of the Donetsk Climbing Competition for the championship of the Ukrainian SSR in 1967 in the class of high-altitude technically complex ascents. Donetsk 1967

I. Geographical location and sports characteristics

The area of Peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Climbers began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – Peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishghar glacier), and the third highest peak – Peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). The high (over 6000 m) ridge from Peak Leningrad State University to Peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zurgvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of Peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the bend of the wall) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility among any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR championships, societies, and departments on mountaineering, this area became very popular and will likely remain a pilgrimage site for many climbing groups for a long time.