Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
6. Left on the route:
   • rock pitons — 5
   • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
   • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9

The area — Caucasus, Dagestan mountains. The peak — Eridag (NW) 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall. It is proposed — 6B cat. dif., second ascent. The nature of the route — rock.

Characteristics of the route:

The height difference of the route — 1167 m. The height difference of the wall section — 1030 m. The length of the route — 3025 m. The length of the wall section (excluding the length of the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) — 1175 m. The average steepness of the route — 64°. The average steepness of the wall — 75°. The average steepness of the bastion — 80°. The length of sections of 6 cat. dif. — 700 m, 5 cat. dif. — 200 m.

Left on the route:

Rock hooks — 0, anchor hooks — 3, piton hooks (8 mm) — 1, chock stones — 0. Hooks used on the route:

• stationary pitons — 10
• removable pitons — 25 (8 mm). Total protection used — 228, including skyhooks — 143. Number of climbing hours — 51, days — 4. Number of nights — 3. Team leader — Klenov Alexander Valerievich, HMS.

DESCRIPTION

The route of traversing the Shah-Dag peak massif from east to southwest with ascent via the eastern counterfort, accomplished by a team of climbers from the Azerbaijan Council "DINAMO" during an expedition from October 30 to November 10, 1966. The Shah-Dag peak is located in the Lateral Ridge of the Eastern Caucasus within the territory of the Azerbaijan SSR and has an elevation of 4250 m (other sources indicate 4255 m). The main massif of the peak drops steeply to the south and southwest towards the wide left-bank terrace of the Shahnabad River (towards "Shah-Eylag") with steep walls, the lower part of which is a 400-600 m monolithic cliff. The upper part of the walls has a stepped structure, composed of individual 20-40 m monolithic blocks dissected by narrow couloirs and crevices, and merges into the massive ice-snow dome of the peak, with individual heavily destroyed ridges and rock ridges cutting into it. The slopes of the dome have a considerable steepness of 40-45° in the lower part and, gradually becoming less steep towards the top, form a snow-covered summit plateau of significant extent. The summit point is closer to the southern part of the plateau, at the beginning of the rocky ridge extending in the direction of the southern wall. To the east, the summit dome also drops with monolithic rocky cliffs, gradually becoming less steep in the northern part and transitioning into heavily destroyed, scree-covered eastern slopes of the ridge extending from the peak to the northeast. From the southeastern part of this slope, four parallel ridge-spurs of cuesta-like form extend eastward, with slopes dropping steeply to the south and significantly more gently to the north.

• The highest, southernmost spur, forms the southeastern continuation of the southern wall of the massif with its cliffs.
• The northern spur is the longest and divides into two branches, sharply turning to the north and south.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Ahmadi Donish via the East Wall August 3–8, 1966 Team of the Central Council of the Lokomotiv Sports Society

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

Peak Ahmadi Donish is located in the Academy of Sciences Range in the northwestern part of the Pamir Mountains, between Peak Izvesti (6856 m) and Peak Kalinin (6560 m). The height of Peak Ahmadi Donish is 6667 m. It was discovered in the mid-1930s. To the southeast of the peak, a lateral ridge extends towards the Bivachny Glacier; to the northwest, another ridge continues, featuring peaks such as:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m)
• Peak Korzhenevskoi (7105 m). There have been two ascents to Peak Ahmadi Donish. The first ascent was made by a team from the Central Council of Spartak under the leadership of V.M. Abalakov, participating in the competition for the best ascent of the 1959 season.

I. Brief geographical description and climbing characteristics of the traverse

The peaks of the traverse are located on the northwestern Pamir. In its northern part, the meridional ridge of the Pamir - the Academy of Sciences Range - forks, giving a powerful branch to the west, which ends at Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The fork is formed by the massif of Peak Voroshilov, representing a more than 3-kilometer uplift in the form of a ridge, fluctuating in height from 6666 m to 6500 m. The ridge has significant ruggedness (from 7105 m to 5300 m), but nevertheless represents a single massif both geographically and in mountaineering terms. The massif is bounded by two powerful glaciers (Ayu-Dzhilga and Moskvin) and separates two large valleys (Ayu-Dzhilga and Fortambek). The peaks within the massif had already been conquered via the simplest routes:

• Peak Voroshilov from the east;
• Peak Chetyrekh from the southwest;

Ascent Passport

Appendix No. 1 I. High-altitude and technical category 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights — Southwest wall of Peak "Ahmad Donish" (6666 m) 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 2300 m average steepness — 75° length of complex sections — 1340 m 5. Pitons driven:

1987 RSFSR Alpine Championship

High-altitude Climbing Category

Ir. 576 p. 9 dated 6.10.87 2nd ascent of V. Smirnov route, 6th category of difficulty PEAK AKHMAI DONISH 6666 m The photo contains a report from Smirnov's institute, but it was not provided to the team. Recorded with counter-V. Approved for the ascent of Peak Akhmad Donish via the South Face (№ 4.1.5 according to KTMGV) by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee. Second ascent. Team Leader

Climbing Passport

Completed in the 1975 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Climbing class: High-altitude technical. Climbing area: Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier. Climbing route: Peak Akhmad Donish (6665 m) via the South face. Climbing characteristics: height difference 2300 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex sections 1610 m (steepness 81°). Number of pitons used: rock - 357, ice - 13, bolted - 2. Total climbing hours - 90.5 hours. Number of bivouacs - 10 (excluding preparation day), including: lying down - 4 (all in one location - weather waiting), sitting - 6. Additionally, two lying down bivouacs on the summit - weather waiting. Team name: Leningrad City Sports Committee Team. Team members:

1. Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich - Master of Sports, captain, coach
2. Grachev Andrei Borisovich - Master of Sports, participant
3. Borzov Yuri Vyacheslavovich - Master of Sports, participant
4. Vikulin Stanislav Aleksandrovich - Master of Sports, participant
5. Smirnov Alexey Aleksandrovich - Candidate for Master of Sports, participant

I. Altitude class 2. Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier 3. Peak Akhmad-Donish via South Face. 4. 6B, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 2300 m, length 2585 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff.: 2142 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 73°30′, including 6 cat. diff.: 80° (80 m), 85° (65 m), 90° (175 m), 95° (56 m). 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
• bolt: 12 / 4
• chocks: 85 / 70