Ascent Passport

  1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
  3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. The route is rock climbing.
  5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
  6. Left on the route:
    • rock pitons — 5
    • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
    • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9
    • left "holes" from a drill (8 mm) — 94
    • Total aid climbing used (times) — 674
    • Aid climbing on ice axes, anchors, hatchets — 442
    • Used belay points:
      • Total/including for aid climbing — 330/232
      • rock pitons — 119/87
      • chocks — 102/73
      • bolt pitons — 109/72
  7. Team's total climbing hours — 190.5 hours
    • days — 23
    • of which the first rope team worked on the terrain for — 131 hours
  8. Team leader: Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich, Master of Sports, Makhachkala Team members:
    • Grigorov Andrey Vladimirovich, Master of Sports, Saratov
    • Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, Master of Sports, Sochi
    • Tabakov Sergey Vladimirovich, Master of Sports, Saratov
    • Bibin Oleg Yuryevich, Master of Sports, Saratov
    • Afanasyev Viktor Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports (Master of Sports norm fulfilled in 2004), Maikop
  9. Senior coach: Murtazaliev Ziyabudin Murtazalievich, Makhachkala. Coaches: Nozdrin Igor Alexandrovich, Sochi; Serdyukov Ivan Ivanovich, Saratov
  10. Start of preliminary processing — January 21, 2005. Camp 1 setup (9th rope) — February 2, 2005. Camp 2 setup (15th rope) — February 8, 2005. Wall departure (takeoff) — February 9, 2005. Camp 3 setup (20th rope) — February 12, 2005. Summit and descent to the base camp Erydag — February 14, 2005. Bad weather (not working on the route) — January 25, February 1, 2005.

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Erydag 3925

General photo of the summit

  1. Route of team 4/3 — ledges of the right part of the NW wall.
  2. 5B, along the right inner corner of the NW wall, S. Feldman, '80.
  3. 5B, along the right "cold" corner of the NW wall, P. Leonov, '96. July 16, 2004, NW slope of Mt. Erydag from 2500 m. Photo by Dorrok.

Attached files

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