Route via the South-East Ridge (approximately 3A category of difficulty) The summit of SOAN (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in the main ridge of the Tunka Alps — East Sayan. The Tunka Alps are stretched by a single ridge with spurs from west to east between the rivers Irkut and Kitoy. The summit itself is slightly protruding to the south along a spur sandwiched between the Zun-Khandagai and Talta rivers. To reach the base camp of the route via the South-East ridge, one needs to follow the Zun-Khandagai river valley. From November to mid-May, the rivers of the Sayan are frozen, and the valleys have shallow loose snow. By May, some open snowfields become firn, but the snow generally retains its looseness until it melts. Ice fields and aufeis can be found along the river valleys and persist until mid-July. Numerous high-altitude lakes are completely ice-free by the second half of July. There is no glaciation in the summit area. The most favorable time for climbing:

• June
• July
• Early August

TRANSPORTATION

From Irkutsk, take a scheduled bus or a car to the Arshan resort — 218 km. From the Arshan resort to the Zun-Khandagai river valley (west along the mountain ridge) by car or on foot — 12 km. Up the Zun-Khandagai river valley on foot to the fork of the Left and Right Zun-Khandagai — 9 km. At the fork, it is convenient to set up a base camp, as it is located at the forest boundary. The river valley is narrow, with slopes heavily overgrown with forest and bushes. A faint trail runs along the valley, and it is recommended to inquire about its location with climbers from Irkutsk.

Ascent record of v. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK, 2213 m, via North Ridge, cat. 2A

1. East Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Vtoraya Shikhtolayka valley, section 6.1.2. 2. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK peak, 2213 m, via North Ridge. 3. Proposed category: 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type: rock. 5. Height difference 100 m, length 117 m, average slope 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones 17 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 5 h. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Team: Afanasiev A.E. MS Zhambalov Ts.B. badge Karelov P.S. 3rd class Lisov M.A. 3rd class Lipendin I.A. badge Makarov R.V. 3rd class Shvetsov I.V. 3rd class
2. Coach Afanasiev A.E. MS
3. Ascent to the summit and descent on August 24, 2015.

Route description to v. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK, 2213 m, via North Ridge, cat. 2A

From the base camp at the forest boundary between Dozhdevoye and 2nd Shikhtolayka valleys to

Route Description

Via the south-eastern buttress of the Central peak of Trekhglavaya (2511 m) Group composition: leader Laptev N.K., Belousov V.M., Vorobyova N.P., Boyarkina Z.M. Date of ascent — 2–3 May 1972 The group set out on the route at 6:00 from the base camp in the direction of the huge canyon separating the Central and Southern peaks of Trekhglavaya. The base camp is conveniently located on the edge of the forest on the southern side of the cirque under the peak. The path initially goes with a slight gain in height, and then turns into a steep fine and medium scree. To start the route, it is necessary to:

• Enter the canyon
• Ascend along it, alongside the wall of the buttress, to a huge boulder protruding from under the snow (in summer — from under the scree) See photo I. The protruding boulder, having a diameter of 8 meters, is located 40–50 m from the lower point of the buttress and is not covered by snow even in winter. At this point, the altitude reading was 1900 m.

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the area

The Zun-Khandagai valley is located in the middle part of the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountains in the Eastern Sayan. The alpine-type relief of the area with sharp peaks and heavily serrated ridges provides opportunities for classifying a number of sports routes in this valley. Routes are classified only on SOAN-3B, 4A, 4B. The absolute heights of the valley are close to 3000 m. The peak Shelekhov (2810) is located in the northwest corner of the upper valley, forming with its southern and southeastern ridges a small, cirque-like feature, which opens into a wide couloir leading to the northwest lake of the valley. The passage of routes is often complicated by significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and melts mostly by the end of May or June. The approach with a load to the base camp at the forest boundary from the Tunkinskaya valley, along the road leading from the village of Tagarkhay, takes one and a half walking days.

Route description

From the base camp at the forest boundary - to the right (orographic) upper cirque. From the lake to the northwest, the entire route to the very summit is clearly visible (photo 1). Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, ascend to a gentle ridge that leads directly to the route. At the end of the gentle part of the ridge - rope up.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SHKOLNAYA, VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE ROUTE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 1B DIFFICULTY, BY THE INITIAL TRAINING SCHOOL TEAM OF THE CLUB "GORY BAIKALA" FROM OCTOBER 15, 2018 TO OCTOBER 15, 2018 Irkutsk 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

Abaya, 1B category via North-West ridge

Route description.

A good trail leads from Tuyuksu alpine camp eastwards through an ancient moraine and further to the spring. From the spring one should head to the moraine along medium and large talus to Abaya glacier. R0 point. From here the path to the summit passes along the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further:

• Turn towards North-West ridge.
• Ascend to the ridge along talus and snow to a characteristic saddle.
• From the saddle follow a combined ridge with alternating belay to the foot of the summit tower.
• Traverse the tower along the path on the left, on snow, to the North-East ridge.
• Further, along the loose rocks with alternating belay on the eastern side —

Bogatyr (4616 m)

1. Ascent to the North summit from the north.
2. Traverse of the Bogatyr — Kolesnik (4510 m) peaks from north to south. Ascent to the North summit from the north, category 3B route (fig. 11). The massif of Bogatyr peaks is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, in the upper reaches of the central branch of the same-name glacier, approaching it from the east. The northern and northwestern slopes of the massif descend towards the Pioner glacier, flowing into the Left Talgar valley. The entire massif is snow-ice, with rocks only in the uppermost part. The massif has three peaks:

• North — 4570 m

Traverse of the peaks Bogatyr - Kolesnik, 3B cat. route The beginning of the route to the North summit of Bogatyr is given in the previous description. Descent from the North summit of Bogatyr in the southern direction along the icy slope with a steepness of up to 60°, with two drops, bypassing the first gendarme on the left. The next two gendarmes are overcome head-on with alternating belay. Loss of height is up to 200 m.

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.