The route to the summit of Pik Skryabina via the Northeast Ridge (first ascent). The summit elevation is 3456 m.

Introduction

Pik Skryabina is located in a short spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Khalatsa and Zekkara in the upper Zrug gorge. The distance from the village of Nar to the foot of the mountain is 12 km. The Transcaucasian Highway rescue team is based in Nar. The Zrug gorge is in a border zone, so it is necessary to obtain permits in advance. 10 km from Nar, on the riverbank, there are ruins of a 10th-century temple on a hill. It is possible to spend the night in a hut near the temple. In the summer, ascents to the surrounding peaks can be made from the hut.

Ascent Details

1. North Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Main Caucasian Range, classification point – 2.8.
2. Name of the peak: Pik Skryabina, route: via the Northeast Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 3B.
4. Route type: rock.

1. Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8
2. Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion.
3. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 75°;
• entire route: 65°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Range; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) – 2980 m; from the south along the North-West ridge.
3. 1B category of difficulty; first ascent.
4. Nature of the route – rocky.
5. Route elevation gain – 700 m. The length is about 2200 m. The elevation gain of the wall part of the route is 200 m. The steepness of the key sections of the route is up to 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route – none.
7. Team's walking hours – 5 hours, days – 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent.
4. Route type - rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route - none.
7. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsatadon River gorge.
3. Peak 3664 m (Tsat); from Southeast via South Ridge.
4. Proposed — Category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, approximately 2 km long. Average slope along the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons driven:

   rock	chocks	ice screws	bolted pitons
   2	4	0	0

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties.

Approaches

Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post:

• A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
• The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
• This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
• There are places for tents and water

Report

on the first ascent of Pik Alania via the North-Eastern ridge, category 1B, by the Alpinism Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia — Alania team, July 23, 2021.

1. Ascent Passport

№	1. General information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Koklin D.A. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Egorin S.V.
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia — Alania
2. Characteristics of the ascent object

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — Combined
2. Ascent region — East Caucasus, Shavana ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Kichchechkort, 4133 m, via N ridge.
4. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 900 m. b) route length — 1900 m. c) average steepness of the route — 40 °
5. Pitons hammered for belay (I.T.O.): rock — 1

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — Combined 2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shavana ridge 3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kichchechkort, 4133 m, via North-Eastern buttress of Eastern ridge. 4. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 900 m. b) route length — 1500 m. c) average steepness of the route — 50° 5. Pitons hammered for belay (I.T.O.): — rock — 14

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.