Report

On the ascent of the Right part of the Left bastion of the Eastern wall of Vudyavrchorr (B) (1068 m), "Kopilka" route. Estimated category of complexity – 4A. For classification. (First ascent: Ageev N., 1995) Khibiny mountain range. Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Ganesina cirque. Classification table section number: 8.6.1. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Leader: Kananykhin I.V. St. Petersburg, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Khibiny mountain range. Ganesheva Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Peak name: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — "Lestenka".
3. Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 470 (by altimeter) Route length: 510 m. Section lengths:

• V category difficulty — 120 m,
• VI category difficulty — 70 m.

Report

On the Ascent

via the 2nd counterfort of the eastern part of the "Otkol" cirque wall, Takhtarvumchorr (S) (1058 m) "Dembelsky" route, cat. 2B Takhtarvumchorr ridge, Khibiny (July 11, 2015, first ascent)

Apatity

2016

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Section number in the classification table: 8.6.1.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — combined.
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, "Otkol" on Takhtarvumchorr ridge via the E wall; 1143.5 m.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 850 m. Length of sections by cat. diff.:

• II — 500 m
• III — 250 m

Ascent Passport

1. Khibiny mountain range. Cirque of Mt. Petrelius 1141 m, classification table section: #8.6
2. Peak name: Mt. Petrelius 1141 m, route name "Through the center of the northern wall".
3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 470 m (by altimeter) Route length: 560 m. Section lengths: V category of difficulty — 300 m. VI category of difficulty — 50 m.

Ascent Report

Team from St. Petersburg on peak 973 m, via the north wall, approximately 4B category of difficulty, July 27, 2015, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Lovozerskie Tundra Mountains, 1st Raslak Cirque area, Raslak stream (tributary of Sergevan River), section 8.7 ECTM 2011
2. Peak 973 m, via the north wall
3. Proposed category: 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route height difference: 360 m, including 300 m of wall ascent Route length: 550 m, including 450 m of wall ascent. Length of sections with V difficulty: 70 m, with VI difficulty: 0. Average steepness of the main route section: 67°; total route: 62°
6. Pitons left on the route: 1, including 0 bolts

Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via "Feathers" 5A cat.

The wall faces southeast with a 500-meter cliff and is located in the center of the Ai-Petri massif. The route requires:

• vertical pitons
• horizontal pitons
• U-shaped pitons
• ice pitons R0–R1: From the Khosta-Bash clearing, approach the base of Ai-Petri and move along the talus to a large inclined rock shelf 40 m wide and 40–45 m long. The route begins from this shelf. 1–2. Ascend easy rocks to the base of a chimney. For the first 40 meters, the chimney is very narrow, so it is recommended to ascend without a backpack. Organize belays in the widening part of the chimney. The rocks are difficult. The next 40 meters are ascended:
• on tensioned limbs

Ayya — 1

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Ayya Cape. The wall with a mark of 394.2 m in the northern closure of the "Lost World" amphitheater

"Assol" Route

5B, V, A3, 220 m. Lyapun A., Streltsov S. — 1986 (variant I) 6A, VI, A3, 230 m. Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Streltsov M. — 2003 (variant II)

Route Description

• The beginning of the route goes along the crest of the counterfors, framing the western border of the Main couloir (Internal corner).
• The crest is convenient for climbing, provided with cracks for pitons.
• The direction of movement is the upper of the two shelves with large (up to 12 m)

Ayya — 2

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Ayya. The wall with a mark of 394.2 m in the northern closure of the amphitheater of the "Lost World"

"Assol" Route

5B, V, A3, 220 m. Lyapun A., Streltsov S. — 1986 (variant I). 6A, VI, A3, 230 m. Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Streltsov M. — 2003 (variant II)

Route Description

• The beginning of the route goes along the ridge of the counterforce, framing the western boundary of the Main couloir (Internal corner).
• The ridge is convenient for climbing, provided with cracks for hooks.
• The direction of movement is the upper of the two shelves with large (up to 12 m)

Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

The route was climbed in May 2013 by the team of Balabanov Nikita — Fomin Misha (Kiev). From the authors: initially, we planned to climb this route as a first ascent, however, starting from the grottoes, we found one or two old pitons on each rope pitch in the most difficult sections all the way to the yayla. That is, our ascent is at least the second one, and we did not find any information about the first. Therefore, we suggest naming the route "Through the Grottoes" — it reflects the distinctive feature of the entire route, and we hope that the unknown first ascenders would not be offended. The total time taken for the ascent was 16 hours. Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2