Ascent Passport

Khibiny mountain range. Cirque of Mt. Petrelius 1141 m, classification table section: #8.6
Peak name: Mt. Petrelius 1141 m, route name "Through the center of the northern wall".
Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
Route type: rock.
Route elevation gain: 470 m (by altimeter) Route length: 560 m. Section lengths: V category of difficulty — 300 m. VI category of difficulty — 50 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 67°
Pitons left on the route: total 2; including bolted 0 Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted 0 (including ATO: 0) removable bolted 3 (including ATO: 3) Total artificial points of support (ATO) used: 19 points.
Team's climbing hours: 32 h, 3 days
Leader: Pankov Maxim Anatolyevich, Candidate Master of Sports. Participants:
- Andreev Arkady Borisovich, 1st sports rank
- Orlov Vladimir Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank
Coach: Shumilov O.I., Master of Sports Tinin Yu.P., Master of Sports
Departure to the route: July 18, 2003 Summit reached: July 20, 2003 Return to base camp: July 20, 2003

Photo (September 2002). View of the mountain from the lower part of Petrelius River valley

Route profile from the left (from the direction of Petrelius Pass) Hand-drawn route profile

Area photopanorama.

You can drive to Petrelius River valley by high-clearance vehicle (GAZ-66 etc.) — almost to East Petrelius Pass — a dirt road 20 km from "Tirvas" sanatorium, from KSS base side. Then on foot, before reaching the pass — ascent to the cirque, under the wall. Approach time — 2 h.

Ascent Schedule

Technical photo of the route

Route Description

Approach to the eastern pass of Mt. Petrelius, from KSS base side. Before reaching the pass — ascent to the cirque, under the wall. Good spot for a base camp. (Water from melting snow patches at the base of the wall.)

R0–R2: Ascent up a steep snow slope under the rocks. 100 m, 30°, II category of difficulty. R2–R3: From snow, transition to a slab 5 m, 60°, IV category of difficulty to an inclined ledge. Traverse left along the ledge 20 m, 30°, II category of difficulty. Wall 5 m, 60°, IV category of difficulty. Traverse right and exit to a terrace 20 m, 30°, II category of difficulty. Used: 4 pitons R3–R4: Up a broken inner corner 35 m, 70° V category of difficulty to a vertical wall (right forming edge of the inner corner). Up the wall 15 m, 90° V+ category of difficulty, ascent to a ledge under a cornice. Control cairn! Used: 8 pitons, 4 chocks, 3 friends. R4–R5: Bypass the cornice on the right 5 m, 95° V+ category of difficulty, exit to an inner corner, up the corner 10 m, 70° V category of difficulty, and its right wall 30 m, 85° V category of difficulty, bypassing the cornice on the right, exit to a large ledge. (Dangerous during rockfall!) Used: 10 pitons, 2 chocks, 2 friends. R5–R6: Up the wall on the left 30 m, 70° V category of difficulty, exit to an inclined ledge. Used: 5 pitons, 1 chock, 2 friends. R6–R7: Up a characteristic vertical inner corner 50 m, 85° V+ category of difficulty, to a ledge. Used: 12 pitons, 4 chocks, 2 friends. R7–R8: Up the wall 15 m, 85° V category of difficulty; 15 m 90° V+ category of difficulty, exit to a comfortable ledge at the base of an inner corner. Used: 8 pitons, 2 chocks. R8–R9: Up the inner corner (right and up) 30 m, 70° IV category of difficulty to a vertical wall, traverse right along the wall 10 m, 90° VI category of difficulty, up the vertical wall 5 m, 90° VI category of difficulty. Ledge. Used: 8 pitons, 2 chocks, 1 friend. R9–R10: Up the vertical wall, under a cornice 10 m, 80° V+ category of difficulty. Under the cornice, a bolt (removable). Through the cornice via a narrow crack 20 m, 90° A₃ VI category of difficulty, exit to a small ledge, under the wall. Traverse right 5 m, 90° V category of difficulty, up the wall 10 m, 85° V+ category of difficulty. Narrow ledge, bolt (removable). Control cairn 2. Used: 17 pitons, 2 chocks, 3 friends. On ATO, thin horizontal pitons; micro stoppers, medium friends. R10–R11: From the ledge, traverse left 5 m 85° V category of difficulty under the start of an inner corner. Up the inner corner, formed by a series of flakes, 10 m 85° V+ category of difficulty. Further up the wall to a ledge 15 m 80° V category of difficulty. Used: 7 pitons, 2 chocks, 2 friends. R11–R12: Traverse right and up along the ledge 15 m 70° IV category of difficulty under an overhanging inner corner. Up the corner 5 m, 95° A₁ VI category of difficulty, exit to a ledge. From the ledge up the wall 15 m 90° VI category of difficulty, exit to the base of a broken chimney. Up the chimney 10 m 60° III category of difficulty. Station in the chimney, uncomfortable spot. Removable bolt. Used: 10 pitons, 2 chocks, 3 friends. On ATO — medium friend. R12–R13: Up the chimney 10 m, 75° V category of difficulty to a ledge, then left up an inner corner 30 m, 70° IV category of difficulty. Exit to the summit. Used: 5 pitons, 2 chocks, 1 friend. Control cairn laid out with stones on the plateau. Rocks on the route are partially broken, many cracks for very thin pitons. All types of pitons and chocks — friends, stoppers — work well. The level of free climbing required for the route is 6a+–6b. In polar day conditions (summer), it's possible to climb the route in a team of two in alpine style. No water on the route.

Descent from the summit: via the eastern ridge of Mt. Petrelius. (No mountaineering equipment required) Emergency exit from the route: Via the ascent route.