Ayya — 2

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Ayya. The wall with a mark of 394.2 m in the northern closure of the amphitheater of the "Lost World"

"Assol" Route

5B, V, A3, 220 m. Lyapun A., Streltsov S. — 1986 (variant I). 6A, VI, A3, 230 m. Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Streltsov M. — 2003 (variant II)

Route Description

The beginning of the route goes along the ridge of the counterforce, framing the western boundary of the Main couloir (Internal corner).
The ridge is convenient for climbing, provided with cracks for hooks.
The direction of movement is the upper of the two shelves with large (up to 12 m) junipers. Control landmark — a grotto behind the right of the three shafts on the upper shelf. The grotto is suitable as a shelter.
From the grotto, descend 6 m to the head of the Main couloir. Here — R4
From R4 — along the left edge of the "Grey slab" — 10 m, then left-up into the internal vertical corner. This is a zone of tectonic crushing: assess the strength carefully! · In 2003, the R4–R5 interval was cleared of live rocks for video shooting (up to 600 kg were thrown down).
Place the R5 station to the right of the exit from the inner corner on 2 junipers. The balcony has been cleaned.
If necessary, from here you can go diagonally to the right on a simple relief along the inner corner of the II cat. diff.
When climbing according to "variant I", from R6 skyhooks "under the holes" will be required. Starting from 7 m, the cracks are deaf. They open at 10–11 m. When climbing through the cornices according to "variant II" You will be pleasantly surprised by the excellent horizontal cracks at the junction of the wall and the ceiling. Width — 20–25 mm. Boxes go well. Skyhooks are needed for sharp edges. Nuts — on long ropes or rigid slings. Into the crack on the ceiling before the edge of the cornice, they go in 15 cm. The extractor is long. The width of the cracks behind the cornice is up to 100 mm. The noise of the sea and the wind make acoustic communication difficult. Therefore, having passed the cornice and risen 3 m to set the R9 station, it is advantageous for the leader to descend to the edge of the cornice. The R6 station is ideal for filming the overcoming of cornices. The total overhang of the cornices is 8 m. The cornice has been cleaned from R8 to R9. The total excess of the wall from the foot to the brow is 280–300 m.

Note: the location of the wall is reflected in the overview photograph of the area, in the description of the "Pourquoi pas?" route — 2003. Diagram of the "Assol" route