Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via "Feathers" 5A cat.

The wall faces southeast with a 500-meter cliff and is located in the center of the Ai-Petri massif. The route requires:

• vertical pitons
• horizontal pitons
• U-shaped pitons
• ice pitons

R0–R1: From the Khosta-Bash clearing, approach the base of Ai-Petri and move along the talus to a large inclined rock shelf 40 m wide and 40–45 m long. The route begins from this shelf.

1–2. Ascend easy rocks to the base of a chimney. For the first 40 meters, the chimney is very narrow, so it is recommended to ascend without a backpack. Organize belays in the widening part of the chimney. The rocks are difficult.

The next 40 meters are ascended:

• on tensioned limbs
• then traverse right to the right wall of the chimney
• vertically up to a through grotto in the chimney.

The grotto is passed cautiously due to many "loose" rocks. Belay on a small platform above the chimney. The rocks are very difficult.

2–3. The next 25 m are in a narrow chimney. At the end of the chimney, there is a cork made of "loose" rocks. Ascend very difficult rocks to a large platform 5–8 m in size.

From the platform, a large crack goes up and right, leading to a medium-sized chimney in 10–15 m. The chimney ends in 35 m, leading to a large ledge where belays can be organized through protrusions.

3–4. The next 40 m are the key section of the route. Ascend a pronounced crack, then traverse left and up to the top of a "feather" in 20 m. This section requires:

• ice pitons
• U-shaped pitons

The rocks are very difficult. The top of the "feather" is a platform consisting of large rocks.

4–5

Three meters above the platform, there is a narrow, long balcony, along which one goes right and up. At the end of the balcony, there is a vertical crack that leads to a small shelf in 8–10 m.

Then:

• directly up weathered rocks for 10–12 m. Artificial holds are necessary. The steepness is 85°.
• at the end of the section, there is a small ledge where piton belays should be organized.

5–6

Ascend a weakly expressed couloir (rocks of medium difficulty, 40 m) to a rocky-grassy slope. The route then goes along a shelf, then along the base of the first tooth. After ascending to the shoulder of the first tooth, traverse the teeth and exit to the summit.

The route length is 600 m:

• difficult and very difficult rocks — 280–370 m
• rocks of medium difficulty — 160 m
• easy rocks — 120 m

The ascent takes 7 hours.