Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

The route was climbed in May 2013 by the team of Balabanov Nikita — Fomin Misha (Kiev).

From the authors: initially, we planned to climb this route as a first ascent, however, starting from the grottoes, we found one or two old pitons on each rope pitch in the most difficult sections all the way to the yayla. That is, our ascent is at least the second one, and we did not find any information about the first. Therefore, we suggest naming the route "Through the Grottoes" — it reflects the distinctive feature of the entire route, and we hope that the unknown first ascenders would not be offended. The total time taken for the ascent was 16 hours.

Technical description of the route:

View of the approach couloir

R0–R1

Straight up the rugged rocks with a system of cracks to the pyramidal pine tree, growing on the same vertical line as the right grotto.

Leave a piton before the pine tree. Bypass the pine tree on the right, and 2 meters higher, there is a convenient spot for a belay station.

Height: 35 m — IV, 5 m — V.

"Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, lower part of the route

R1–R2

Straight up, gradually moving left, reach the upper edge of a 2-meter rock "belt" that crosses the entire wall diagonally from left bottom to right top.

Lots of vegetation in the cracks, making climbing difficult.

V A1, 30 m.

R2–R3

Up a small inner corner formed by the wall and a "hat," towards the left grotto. Before the grotto, there is a fork:

the left crack leads to the left grotto,
the right one — to the right grotto.

We climbed via the left one, which added a traverse on the next pitch. It is highly desirable to have several yellow cams or other suitable sizes. The crack goes on for a long time with the same width. You can climb via the right one directly to the right grotto, without entering the left one, but it will be more difficult and involve more ITC (in-situ technical climbing). Again, lots of cracks with grass, occasionally simple ITC. Belay station in the left grotto on our own gear plus an old piton at the start of the traverse to the right grotto. VI, A1, 45 m.

R3–R4

Traverse from the left grotto to the right one, there are old pitons (one or two). Belay station in the right grotto; we left a piton in a large block. IV–V, 15 m.

R4–R5

Through the dry wood inside the right grotto, approach its upper right part and via a short overhang, exit right-up onto a small foothold. Then, vertically up the crack, transitioning into a flake at its top (the foothold).

From the foothold:

3–4 m on skyhooks and relief features to a semi-pendant belay station in an old eagle's nest.

There are old pitons encountered. VI, A2, 30 m.

R5–R6

From the belay station, vertically up the crack until it ends, then traverse left 3–4 m to a large ledge, and again up the crack: initially on ITC, and then by free climbing — to a large ledge under an overhang that crosses the entire wall. The belay station is inconvenient, on our own gear in the "half" of this ledge. It's likely that this and the previous pitch can be combined into one.

VI, A2, 25 m.

R6–R7

Traverse right along the ledge for 2–3 m, then free climb up the slab with micro-holds to an old piton. From it, traverse left by free climbing for 3 m, parallel to the crack, and up the crack to the next old piton. Then, up the crack with vegetation on easing terrain to the flattening of a large ledge.

VI, A1, 40 m.

R7–R8

Vertically up, initially on simple rocks under an overhanging brow with an old piton in a large inner corner. Overcome it and continue up the corner under the next overhang. Before it, move left; the belay station is on our own gear.