UPI Peak

3603 m

07451

Report of the Kemerovo Region team (FACO) on the ascent to UPI Peak via the right part of the NW slope "3B", (k)

Participants:

Gette V.M. Zubkov A.Yu.

Ascent Passport

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley.
2. UPI Peak, via the right part of the NW slope.

Chaptynova peak via the direct line of the northern slope Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Class: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Chaptynova peak, via the direct line of the northern slope, ice-snow route.
4. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 350 m; length – 650 m. Average steepness of the route – 25–30°.

Ascent

To Einstein Peak via the North-Eastern wall (approximately category 3A difficulty) Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Members

1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
2. Tolmachev V.V. 1st sports category
3. Kalachev V.V. Candidate Master of Sports
4. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description

Report

On the ascent of the assembled team to the summit of Alisher 3670 m.

via the North Ridge. Presumably 1B category of difficulty. First ascent. Dolgov S. P. — team leader Usanov I. V., Luzhetsky I. V.

Altai 2013 participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Dolgov Sergey Pavlovich. CMS. Address: 656015, Barnaul, ul. Depotskaya, 12–38. phone: +7 903-073-98-18. Email: s_dolgov@mail.ru
2. Usanov Ivan Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, Gorno-Altaisk
3. Luzhetsky Igor Viktorovich, 2nd sports category, Novosibirsk

Passport

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge.
3. Peak Ksenia via NE ridge. 3633 m?
4. Assumed category 2B.
5. Elevation gain 350 m, distance 640 m.
6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
7. Climbing time — 7 hours (from bergshrund to bergshrund).
8. Night bivouac on the upper Sofiysky Glacier field.

Passport

I. Category of First Ascent. 2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area. 3. "Pamyati voskhoditeley na Everest" (B-3) traverse with ascent via the NE ridge snow-ice saddle. 4. Proposed category 4A, first ascent. 5. Height of the eastern summit 3710 m, western 3720 m. Elevation difference 920 m, length 1760 m. 6. Pitons: 22 ice screws for belay. 7. Climbing hours 13. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Leader Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS.

July 13, 2001

ASCENT DOCUMENT for the summit "Peak 300 years of St. Petersburg"

1. Ascent category – Ice and snow.
2. Ascent area – Altai, South Chuya Ridge.
3. Peak – Peak 300 years of St. Petersburg, Height – 3514.5 m, combined route – snow, ice, rocks.
4. Expected category – 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 500 m, length – 1100 m, average steepness – 45° (excluding the ridge).
6. Number of ice screws used – 12, rock anchors – 2.
7. Total climbing hours – 11 hours.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE for the summit “Peak 100th Anniversary of RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING SOCIETY” (July 6, 2001)

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Altai, South Chuya Range — Beltirdu ridge.
3. Summit — Peak 100th Anniversary of Russian Mountaineering Society. Elevation — 3655.6 m, combined route — snow, ice, rocks.
4. Anticipated category of difficulty – 2B.
5. Route description: elevation gain – 550 m, route length – 900 m. Average slope – 35°.
6. Ice screws used – 10, rock pitons – 4.

the summit of Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North slope 3A category, ice-snow, Barnov S.I.

Altai, South Chuya Ridge

1.3

Passport

1. Class: ice-snow.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
3. Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North slope. Coordinates: (49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator)
4. Proposed - 3A category, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m (between the summit and the intermediate camp: 744 m);

The route to the summit of Pik V. Shumilova via the left part of the North slope, snow-ice, coordinates: 49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator, approximately for c/tr. The route, view from the northeastThe route, view from the glacier View from the glacier