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### Traverse of Midagrabin-Hokh and Tep-Hokh Peaks in Central Caucasus A challenging mountaineering route with a 4-5 complexity category. The traverse encompasses stunning scenery and technical climbing sections. #### Key Features: * **Location**: Central Caucasus * **Complexity**: 4-5 category * **Notable Peaks**: Midagrabin-Hokh, Tep-Hokh * The route involves traversing two significant peaks, offering breathtaking views and demanding climbing sections.

Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately). The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m). The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west. Relief features:

  • To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls.
  • To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants:
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Report on the first ascent of the South Peak of the Pik Mirotvorcev via the south ridge, category 2B, made by a group of climbers on August 14, 2012.

Report

on the first ascent of the Southern tower of the Mirrotvorcev Peak, 3411 m via the Southern ridge. Approximately — category 2B. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on July 14, 2012, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. The ascent is dedicated to:

  • the 20th anniversary of the introduction of Peacekeeping Forces
  • that stopped the war on the territory of the Republic of South Ossetia. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, upper reaches of the Cheselt-don river south of the Main Caucasian Ridge, between the Zekara-don gorge to the west and the Strikom gorge to the east
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Report on the first ascent to the summit of Novgorodsky Yu. (3462 m) along the Western ridge, category 1B, made by Vladikavkaz climbers on August 23, 2009.

Report

On the first ascent of v. Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m) via the Western ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Completed by the mountaineers of the Mountain Club SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on May 23, 2009. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent type: rock
  2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsadzhitudon river valley, 2.8
  3. Peak, route: Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m), Western ridge
  4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock, first ascent
  5. Route characteristics:
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### Description of the First Ascent to Pacoта Severная Peak (3505 m) via the North Ridge, Category 1B, Rocky Route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, Tepli region, classification section number 2.8.
  2. Pakota North (3505 m) – from the North.
  3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character — rocky.
  5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 500 m. Length of sections with 4 category of difficulty — 10 m. Average steepness:
  • key sections — 70°
  • entire route — 30°
  1. Hooks left on the route — none.
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Ascent to the summit "Kirpich" via the steep wall in the Gvandra region, accomplished by a team of climbers led by Chernoslivin D.I.

«Kirpich»

(Classified as 5B+1 cat. Protocol №187 from 27.10.1961)

Via South Face

Combined team of Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society “Trud”

Coach Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — G.P. Kolenov, Team Leader Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu.I. Chernosliven Tourist Club, reading room 2764 Moscow, 1960

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Description of a new route to the summit 3933 m (Pamyati Karmadontsev) via the North-Eastern ridge from the Kauridon gorge, category 2A complexity.

Photo 1. General view of peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). The first ascent route is marked. Photo taken from the middle part of the Kauridon gorge. MACLUTAE 1:400000 Photo 2. Panoramic view of the area. Routes marked:

  • number 1 – to Kaydzhany Mal. via North ridge, category 1B;
  • number 2 – to Kaydzhany Severnaya via North ridge, category 2A;
  • number 3 – first ascent route to peak 3933 m (“Pamyati Karmadontsev”). Also marked:
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Ascent of Peak "3850" (North Ossetia) via the northern ice-rocky edge, category of complexity 2B.

Ascents to Peak "3850" 3B cat. (in North Ossetia it is called Peak "3944"). The summit is located in the northern spur of the Lateral Ridge of the Caucasus. The spur branches off from Peak Spartak (4677 m) on the Kazbek firn plateau and includes the following peaks from south to north:

  • Unnamed (Peak Ordzhonikidzevskaya Railway — 4007 m)
  • Peak Iriston (4000 m)
  • Chach-khokh (4100 m)
  • Peak "3850"
  • South Kaidzhani (3916 m)
  • North Kaidzhani (3969 m) Climbers ascending the Kaidzhan–Chach-khokh traverse have twice reached the summit. In January 1959, D. Shevchuk's group ascended Peak "3850" as an independent ascent object from the east; however, the route from the east remained unclassified (approximately 1B cat.). The first ascent of the northern ice-rock rib of Peak "3850" was made by a group of climbers from the North Ossetian Sports Society "Spartak" under the leadership of T. Khakurinov on October 3, 1965. Following the pioneers, a group from the SO Council "Spartak" under the leadership of G. Eputaev ascended the route.
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### Description of the First Ascent of Peak 4312 in the Caucasus via the North Spur, Category 3B Completed in 1994 by a team led by Andrey Gorbunov.

Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Caucasus: 2,86 Genaldon river gorge
  3. Peak, route: p. 4312: via N. ridge from the Maili glacier (named after Tsarakhov T.)
  4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B — first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1800 m, route length — 2400 m, length of sections — 4th category of difficulty — 40 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 600 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
  6. Pitons used: rock — none ice screws — 16
  7. Number of climbing hours (days) — 30 (3)
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Ascent to Poliakov Yuri Peak (4271 m) via the central North-West buttress, 2A category of complexity in the Caucasus; route description and approaches.

  1. Pik Polyakova Yuriya (4271 m) via the central North-West buttress, cat. III.
  2. Leader: Egorin S. V.
  3. Caucasus. Bokovoy Range. Kazbek-Djimara massif.
  4. Section number in KTMGV 2.8.

Route Description

Ascent Data Sheet

  1. Caucasus. Bokovoy Range. Kazbek-Djimara massif. Section number in Classification 2.8.
  2. Pik Polyakova Yuriya 4271 m (in the 2001 Classifier, item 2.8.81—peak 4005 m), via the central North-West buttress.
  3. Category 2A is proposed, first ascent.
  4. The nature of the route is combined.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Kalper via the North-Eastern ridge, category 5A difficulty, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.

PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

  1. Category of ascent: Combined
  2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
  3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
  4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
  6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
  7. Duration: 20 hours
  8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.
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