Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south). From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak. Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau. In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge. Time estimate:
• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours

1. Climbing Passport
   1. Climb category: technical
   2. Climbing area, ridge: № 2–9–а, Dagestan mountains, Greater Caucasus Range.
   3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Bazardyuzi, 4466 m, via the Eastern edge of the Northern ridge.
   4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4A category, combined.
   5. Route characteristics: а) elevation gain 1076 m. б) route length 1950 m, including: * category I 495 m. * category II 850 m.

Ascent Passport

1. The route is combined
2. 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (2.9 East Caucasus)
3. Ascent to Mt. Bali-al (4007 m) via the Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Proposed category – 1B, reg. No 548, 4.7. 16/4–85
5. Route characteristics:

• length – 810 m
• total elevation gain – approx. 550 m
• average steepness – 35°
• length of categorized sections:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent (traverse) class
2. Ascent area
3. Peak, height, ascent route Combined, # 2.9 (East Caucasus), 4116 Bochek/4040/S. Gadzhieva/3812, traverse from the southwest.
4. Proposed difficulty category 3B
5. Route characteristics Elevation gain 1100 m, length of sections:

Climbing Area: Eastern Caucasus, Bishiney Ridge, Charodinsky District, Dagestan ASSR.

MOUNT BISHINEY (4106 m), (Vishiney, 4043 m) combined route via the northern ridge, category 2A difficulty.

Group Composition:

leader — Basriev Zakir A. — Candidate Master of Sports, participants:

• Akhmedkhanov Kamil E. — 2nd sports category
• Pashuk Evgeny G. — 3rd sports category
• Leonov Petr G.
• Kozorezov Evgeny F.
• Nikhyaev Ruslan K.

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: № 2.9 (East Caucasus) 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Bodonay 4049 m, via the northeast ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 5. Route characteristics: — elevation gain 600 m — average steepness 40° — section lengths: R1 — 300 m, R2 — 600 m, R3 — 50 m 6. Pitons driven: rock: —

Ascent Passport.

1. First ascent category.
2. Region 2.10., Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Shalib ridge.
3. Bodonai 4049 m, via the Northeast wall, combined route.
4. 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 400 m, average steepness 50 °, length 730 m, by sections: 1 – 270 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 130 m, 4 – 120 m, 5 – 50 m, 6 – 10 m, of which climbing with aid: A2 – 10 m.
6. Used: 21/8 chocks, 18/2 rock pitons, 3 "carrot" ice screws, 1 rock protrusion; 3 rock pitons left on the route (at points 6, 8 (control cairn), 10).
7. Climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Overnight at the moraine pocket (3500 m) in the NE cirque, in the upper reaches of the Bodonai river.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports

1. Ascent class: Comb. 27
2. Ascent region: №2–9 (East Caucasus)
3. Summit, height, ascent route: peak 4040 (S. Gadzhieva, 3912 m) via the western ridge through peak 3800 (Bichuga)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1100 m, length of section I difficulty category – 1360 m, IV difficulty category – 40 m
6. Rock hooks hammered: 4 Protrusions used: 3
7. Number of walking hours: 2
8. Number of overnight stays: No overnight stays
9. Leader and participants:

ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. 3. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. 7. Climbing hours – 4. 8. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). 9. Leader:

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.